# Part 7: 1997 Sega Jurassic Park The Lost World. Fixing the egg & LED time!

**Source:** Pinball Shenanigans  
**Type:** video  
**Published:** 2025-12-25  
**Duration:** 44m 0s  
**Beat:** Pinball

**URL:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKRyNSq2y9k

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## Analysis

Mike Dimus from Pinball Shenanigans documents restoration progress on a 1997 Sega Jurassic Park: The Lost World pinball machine. In this episode, he installs replacement game ROMs, repairs the left flipper mechanism, converts the backbox from fluorescent to LED lighting, repairs the cracked egg shell mechanism with a Lexan reinforcement patch, performs a complete playfield LED conversion, and replaces the drop target assembly. The work concludes with initial gameplay testing revealing the repairs are functional, though some new issues emerge requiring follow-up.

### Key Claims

- [HIGH] The original flipper sleeves on this machine lacked proper taper compared to original Sega parts, causing excessive play in the linkage. — _Mike directly compares old vs. new sleeves, showing the tapered original part versus the aftermarket non-tapered replacement, then orders a rebuild kit._
- [HIGH] Converting fluorescent backbox lighting to LED via direct hardwiring (bypassing ballast and starter) is an effective upgrade that reduces circuit complexity. — _Mike successfully implements LED tube conversion using Jim Wilk's suggestion to hardwire directly and remove ballast/starter components; tests and confirms uniform light dispersion._
- [HIGH] The egg mechanism on this machine had a significant crack/separation that could be repaired using a thin Lexan reinforcement patch secured with mechanical fasteners. — _Mike documents drilling, fitting, and securing a Lexan patch to the cracked egg shell using screws and washers; confirms closure fitment after repair._
- [MEDIUM] Jurassic Park rules involve hitting the drop target to light locks, which is not immediately obvious from gameplay. — _Mike discovers during testing that hitting the drop target lights the lock shots; notes uncertainty about mode start mechanics throughout gameplay._
- [HIGH] The drop target assembly on this Sega machine requires removal of multiple fastening points to service, including welded/repaired bracket components. — _Mike documents six access points (four screws on two plates, two more on a switch plate) needed to remove the target and describes welded repairs on the bracket._

### Notable Quotes

> "Stern would have been proud of me reducing the overall bomb with just the cost of an LED tube, but they didn't exist back then. So, here's what it looks like. All you purists are just seething right now. But you know, if this technology was available back then, they would have done it."
> — **Mike Dimus**, ~25:45
> _Addresses the tension between original preservation and practical modern upgrades; uses humor to acknowledge purist objections while making a design philosophy argument._

> "I do want to put a uh little bit of myar on top of that magnet to keep that uh in good shape. You can see the tiniest tiniest bit of white. Oh, right in the bullseye of the magnet there in terms of wear, but it's very minimal."
> — **Mike Dimus**, ~18:00
> _Shows proactive wear prevention on the snagger mechanism magnet using Mylar protective layer; indicates restoration best practices._

> "Well, I think I might have connected all my connectors under the playfield successfully. Uh, for all my switches and flashers."
> — **Mike Dimus**, ~19:00
> _Indicates uncertainty about whether reconnection work was fully completed; suggests ongoing verification needed._

> "This definitely has the potential to go horribly wrong. But we're just going to go for it."
> — **Mike Dimus**, ~35:45
> _Captures the risk/reward calculus of irreversible repairs (gluing the egg reinforcement); shows hands-on restoration mindset._

> "I'm going to desolder it. Removed the target. And then I'm going to take this I unplugged it. This target here. It's literally two screws. Pop that into this place. Plug it in."
> — **Mike Dimus**, ~45:30
> _Documents discovery of a quick-access replacement target design that was previously soldered in place; shows how to improve serviceability._

### Entities

| Name | Type | Context |
|------|------|---------|
| Mike Dimus | person | Host of Pinball Shenanigans YouTube channel; performing hands-on restoration work on 1997 Sega Jurassic Park machine |
| Pinball Shenanigans | organization | YouTube channel focused on pinball machine restoration, gameplay, and culture content created by Mike Dimus |
| Jurassic Park: The Lost World (1997 Sega) | game | Subject machine being restored; features egg mechanism, snagger mech, drop targets, multiball modes, smart missile, and orbits |
| Aaron Davis | person | Founder of Fast Pinball; Mike references him as someone who could help with replacement ROM chips if needed |
| Bigfoot Bruce | person | Custom pinball decal creator; commissioned to produce drop target decals for the restoration; referenced in KB as known content creator |
| Jim Wilk | person | Pinball community member who suggested hardwiring LED tube conversion approach to bypass ballast/starter components |
| Corey | person | Friend who visited and left off replacement ROM chips in Mike's mailbox; appears in doorbell camera footage |
| Jamie | person | Mike's spouse; tested the machine during flipper repair phase; present during doorbell camera incident with Corey |
| Mark Benovvena | person | Top viewer of Pinball Shenanigans with 194 videos watched in year; contest winner for 'biggest shenanigander' |
| Sega | company | Manufacturer of the 1997 Jurassic Park: The Lost World pinball machine; Mike criticizes their drop target assembly design complexity |
| Marco Pinball | organization | Source of Monopoly decals that Mike used as reference for Bigfoot Bruce's custom decal measurements |
| Pinside | organization | Pinball community forum where owners discuss Jurassic Park rules and gameplay mechanics; referenced for community feedback |

### Topics

- **Primary:** Flipper mechanism repair and maintenance, LED backbox lighting conversion, Mechanical restoration and parts replacement, DIY pinball restoration workflows
- **Secondary:** Game rules discovery and gameplay testing, Aftermarket parts and community recommendations
- **Mentioned:** Custom decal production

### Sentiment

**Positive** (0.78) — Mike exhibits enthusiasm and satisfaction with repair progress; uses humor and lighthearted language throughout. Positive about successful LED conversion, egg repair, and drop target replacement. Minor frustration expressed about Sega's complex drop target assembly design ('real fun,' sarcastic tone) and some concerns about new mechanical issues emerging at the end. Overall tone is upbeat and accomplished despite acknowledging challenges.

### Signals

- **[community_signal]** YouTube watch time statistics compiled into informal 'biggest shenanigander' viewer contest; reflects engaged audience participation and parasocial connection within content creator community. (confidence: medium) — Mike reviews YouTube Wrapped statistics for top viewers (Mark Benovvena: 194 videos, Kiwi Frenzy: 156 videos) as informal community recognition.
- **[community_signal]** Pinside Jurassic Park owners club actively discusses game rules and mode mechanics; community finds rules engaging and enjoys exploring different mode start methods. (confidence: medium) — Mike references Pinside thread where 'owners say they really enjoy the rules on this game' and discusses mode start mechanics discovered through community engagement.
- **[content_signal]** Multi-part restoration documentary format builds viewership engagement across extended timeline; episode ends with unresolved mechanical issue teasing follow-up content. (confidence: medium) — Mike concludes episode mid-repair: 'I hear some weird noises' and 'I will be addressing that on the next episode' — creates narrative continuity driving future views.
- **[design_philosophy]** Mike's restoration approach balances preservation with practical modernization; directly addresses purist concerns about LED conversion while arguing technological improvements would have been adopted in original era. (confidence: medium) — Quote: 'if this technology was available back then, they would have done it' — frames LED upgrade as design consistency rather than inappropriate modification.
- **[product_strategy]** Replacement target mechanism design represents serviceability improvement over original soldered-in configuration; allows two-screw quick-access replacement without full assembly removal. (confidence: high) — Mike discovers soldered target in close proximity to drop target; redesigns approach to use plug-in connector for future serviceability instead of permanent solder.
- **[product_concern]** Original Sega flipper sleeve design featured tapered profile for proper linkage fit; aftermarket replacement lacked taper causing excessive play, necessitating rebuild kit sourcing. (confidence: high) — Mike shows direct comparison of original Sega-branded tapered sleeve vs aftermarket non-tapered replacement, documents excessive slop in linkage, orders proper rebuild kit.
- **[restoration_signal]** Cracked egg shell reinforcement using thin Lexan patch with mechanical fasteners demonstrates practical conservation approach preserving original mechanism while restoring functionality. (confidence: high) — Mike successfully repairs egg with drill-fitted Lexan patch; confirms 27-hour adhesive cure time and validates closure fitment post-repair.
- **[technology_signal]** LED tube conversion of 1997 Sega backbox lighting demonstrates adoption of modern LED technology in classic machine restoration; Jim Wilk's hardwiring approach represents practical innovation reducing circuit complexity. (confidence: high) — Mike successfully implements LED tube with ballast/starter removal; describes it as improvement over original fluorescent design with better durability and uniform light distribution.

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## Transcript

I'm Mike Dus and this is Pinball Shenanigans. [music] Okay, I got a couple more submissions for biggest shenanigander of the year, a contest that I didn't know I was having until y'all sent me in your uh YouTube annual reports. And uh so here are the results in order of uh least shenanigander to greatest shenanigander with a couple new submissions. So Sean Craig messaged me and he is all these all you guys are top 01 or 0.1 um viewers of the channel. So Sean Craig, he comes in at a whopping 142 videos watched. Then next we have Pez Johnson, 147 videos watched this year. Hey, the year's not over, so I don't know, maybe y'all can up your stats. Who knows how that's going to work? If YouTube will give you another uh report or you can, you know, refresh your report. I don't know how that works, but And next in line is Kulk's Pinball at 149 videos. Then new submission here, Kiwi Frenzy has watched 156 videos. And then the new current leader by a landslide, we've got Mark Benovvena. Benovvenga Bengna who has watched Here it is. Wait for it. 194 videos. So Mark is currently in the lead. Okay. On this episode of Jurassic Park, I may eat some trail mix. I am going to install an LED tube. Look what I just got in the mail yesterday. Jurassic. Hey, this isn't Jurassic Park. I got the wrong freaking ROMs. This is a display ROM 2.01 and CPU ROM 2.02. Couple of the legs, one chip was kind of had escaped its little tube there. And two of the legs on one of these were bent. So I very carefully bent them back. And hopefully they don't snap on me. But if so, I'm sure Davis still would hook a brother up because uh the tape had failed on the little tube that they were in. Anyway, I also got this from Corey last night. He was going to pay me a visit. I was gone. So, he dropped this off in the mailbox, which reminds me to include a video right about now where um he was being a dork on my Ring camera and Jamie was half asleep on the couch and heard some weird noises coming from outside. So, opened the door and caught Cory in the act. So, uh enjoy this video.
Hi Jamie.
Like what the hell is going on?
Have a good one, man. Merry Christmas. Merry Christmas.
Anyway, hope you enjoyed that. I sure did. Also, I have spoken to my buddy Bigfoot Bruce about printing off some drop target decals for me. And uh I recalled that I had these Monopoly decals that I got I believe from Marco Pinball. and Bigfoot Bruce needed the measurements. So, I figured if I give him these measurements for these Monopoly cups that that should work. So, that's why these were out. I can put those back now. Gave Bruce measurements. So, Bruce is going to hook me up with the top decal and face decal there. So, maybe I'll install that. And there's the measurements right there. 1 inch by 1516 for the big portion and one by 516 for the top portion. And uh yeah, so Jamie was just down here. I showed her the machine, threw in some balls, threw on some temporary flipper rubbers just so she could have a quick little game. And um that left flippers garbage. That's the other thing I really got to do is uh I'm going to try and get that left flipper to not be a freaking soggy noodle so that I can maybe do a play test. What we'll do is pop in the game ROMs, fix the flipper, and do a play test on the freshly shuffed up and cleaned up playfield. I think that is a good start. So, I'm going to do that. Okay, I got the new game ROMs installed and then I just cleaned the cabinet flipper switch. Well, I did both of them. I tightened the screws on both sides. There was some I don't know. I think someone spritzed something on this flipper button thinking that was going to help solve the problem, but uh that's definitely not the solution. And then I did remove the coil. The sleeve was a little tight. I put in a new one. I am going to order a rebuild kit for these guys cuz uh well there's the original link. You can see the Sega logo on it and the shape of it. Nice little taper there. And here is whatever the heck was used on this here. No taper. I mean, it works, right? Technically, but uh there's a lot of slop in the uh linkage on both ends. Uh, so I cleaned the end of stroke switch and um I did file out the coil just a little bit to try and make the new sleeve fit in there a little more comfortable so that I could actually get it out once I get my flipper rebuild kit. So hopefully Oh, the other thing. This wire was hanging on by a thread. So that could have something to do with it too. So maybe new sleeve, better solder, cleaned EOS, clean cabinet switch. Maybe that that will get me some power on this left flipper. So going to lower the playfield, turn it on, and we'll see if we can play the first game after the shop job. Okay, just installed the balls. Let's see what happens here. Check the display. 2.01. That's a good start. Display [music] ROM 2.02. All right. So, I got to set it back to free play. Whoa. Almost lost my camera on that one. I just set to free play. Maybe turn the volume down a tiny bit and I'll be right back. Okay. I decided not to put it on free play cuz I wanted to hear the coinup sound. So, let's see. Uh, shoot. I need uh I need to short the switches. They got the little covers on them, so I can't really access them. I can't see what I'm doing either. How about uh Okay, that ain't working. One moment. Okay, this is actually a rare occasion. I have a quarter on me. Don't usually carry change. Okay, let's see what happens. Coin slot number one. Absolutely nothing. Coin slot number two. Kind of got stuck in there. This ain't going well. Okay, plan C. I got another idea here. Um, just need some tool like so. I usually find quarters in machines, not lose them. Okay, I can push down this switch right here, right now. Listen for it. Oh, that's it. Usually they're fun sounds. That's lamest sound ever. Okay. Oh, you know what? We need the DMD. How dare I? Okay, we should have credits now.
Thank God for sight be. Here we go. Let's hit start. 12 credits. Okay. Tons. First game since the shop job. Oh, how about I pull the interlock switch. Coin doors open.
Do you know what world you've come to?
Oh crap. I got I got the camera practically in my neck. Okay. Okay, how about this? Left left left flipper does feel better. Wa, it's falling on the ground. Oh, my quarter. Yay. Got it back. Okay, so uh yeah, look at the left flipper. How far it throws. That is uh not good, but it might actually work now. Look at that. Come on. Ramp combo champ right here. Oh, that's pretty sweet that I can actually use [music] this flipper. Now, people in the Jurassic Park thread on Pinside, [music] the owners club, say they really enjoy the rules on this game and, you know, the different ways that you start modes. I don't even know how to start modes. And you know what? This is very loud. I got to turn it down a little bit. That's a little better. So, how do you start modes? Good question. Let's hit the I've got the sit. I just need the B. Let's hit that.
Okay. I started a ramp mode, I guess. There's the B.
I don't want to take too many cracks at my um snagger mech till I change that drop target which I should do. Oh, speaking of which, nailed the snagger right there. Oh, you can't really backhand that. I got the lock available. Actually, I can get it.
Beautiful.
I can get the lock in. It looks like three different shots on the playfield. The orbits and the left inner orbit. Let's just go left orbit. Right orbit. Left orbit. [music] What does spelling T-Rex do? [music] M. Okay. I'm excited to LED all these inserts. Maybe I'll do that next after probably doing the backbox um light cuz we got to get that up and running. So dark. See what I mean? It's nothing. It's dead. That could be the bast. That could be the what is it the silver thing called again? The uh filter. I forgot what it's called. Or the bulb itself. But we'll go LED.
Extra ball. Really? Why do you issue extra ball and the first time you go on that scoop every time? That seems a little too easy. Oh, another thing I got to do maybe today is uh fix that egg. Get baby T-Rex this front shell back. Snagger. We got to see the snagger in action. Here we go. This should do it.
Stay ready. I do want to put a uh little bit of myar on top of that magnet to keep that uh in good shape. You can see the tiniest tiniest bit of white. Oh, right in the bullseye of the magnet there in terms of wear, but it's very minimal. Okay, so the right orbit looks like I need to hit it now. Still early. Let's try this again. A lot late. So, my slings seem to be nicely adjusted. They're not machine gunning on me. I'm blaming the uh the super long throw on this flipper as to why I'm hitting the bead 10 times in a row. That's the shaker motor moving the camera around. doors open. And the tripod is leaning up against the coin door. So, is that like extra cool or super annoying? You tell me. All right. Hopefully that wasn't too annoying. Some fun tunes for post multibo. And the uh smart missile
does work as one would expect like in Last Action Hero or the first Jurassic Park. I was able to use it once on a play test game before I tore it apart. I mean, I think I had a smart missile available now, but let's hit it and see. No, I guess not. I guess I got to start a mode. How one does that is a good question. San Diego complete the following to light San Diego egg scoop.
Okay, so maybe you got to hit a few scoop shots to start a mode. Shoot. Scoop. That's trouble. Well, I think I might have connected all my connectors under the playfield successfully. Uh, for all my switches and flashers.
Do it again.
Oh, yeah. There's the extra ball. Ball, too. Okay. Well, I'm going to call it. And I don't want to spoil it too much. I want to rebuild the flippers. I want to dial everything I want in. I want to replace the drop target before I dig too deep into the gameplay and the rules. So, but uh so far so good. Okay, time to install the LED tube. I have the old fluorescent bulb removed. In the past, I have basically snipped a couple wires here to um remove this holder and this um what the heck is it called again? Hold on. It is called a starter, not a filter. So, basically, cut that out of the equation and then just have these two wires go up to here and then cut the ballast out of the equation. Have those two wires come down to here. Oh, maybe that's why it wasn't working. I still would like to install the LED tube because honestly it's like $15 and uh it'll last a lot longer. So, what I'm going to do this time is uh I'm just going to This is a Jim Wilk suggestion after I made a little how-to video on installing LED tubes a couple years ago or something year ago maybe. Jim Wilk said, "Well, you know, you can do that, but you can also just hardwire this to this side and get rid of all this wiring entirely instead of using all that to go to the other side." So, that makes sense. So, I am going to um basically see this white wire here. This already goes to the holder. So, I just need to cut the starter out of the equation. cut this wire here and this wire like here. Twist them together and then get rid of all this other crap. So, should be pretty simple. Okay. So, I cut the wire to the starter here and then I cut the black wire to the holder here. And then I wire and nutted them together. So that means I can get rid of the starter and this black white wire and the ballast and even these wires. Okay, before I go ahead and remove all that, let's just test the LED tube and make sure it is working. I have it facing the back of the backbox cuz otherwise it'll be just big bar of light across the middle and it won't disperse very evenly. So if you kind of reflect it off the back of the backbox, it's more of a uniform light. So let's see what happens. Yeah. All right. All right. Check it out. All of this stuff has been removed. Screws, wire clips, ballast, starter, starter socket. Stern would have been proud of me reducing the overall bomb with just the cost of an LED tube, but they didn't exist back then. So, here's what it looks like. All you purists are just seething right now. But you know, if this technology was available back then, they would have done it. I did cut a little bit more of the white wire here and added another Marret just to tidy things up. Oh, Maret. Yeah, that's Canadian for wire nut, just so you know. Look it up. It's a thing. Uh, okay. Now that that's actually all done, let's see if it still works. All right. Okay. And now the next thing is to see what it looks like. Is this Let's close the inner lock so that ball surge doesn't kick on here. Oh yeah, that's beautiful. That's um a lot more uniform than I thought it was going to be. I thought it was still going to be a little bit of a bar in the middle and I didn't think it was going to be all that bright just the way it was looking. But there there's no light, no flash, no overhead light. That's perfect. I like it a lot. Okay, now that the LED tube is done, it is time to repair an egg. Probably give it a bit of a clean first. It's a little dirty, but you know, [snorts] eggs are not pristine white when they come come out of dinosaur bums or wherever they come from. So, it doesn't need to be and span. And I think my plan is just to like add a rectangular piece of very thin myar to the equation. and crazy glue it. Drill some holes and shouldn't be too much trouble. Um, where's some wood? Where's some wood? Ah, nineball. Okay, so first thing I did was to uh tape the egg together so that it is in place. I cut my little piece of Lexan. Did I call it myar? I might have called it myar, whatever. Lexam and see if it looks like it should work. I think so. I really hope I don't run into any fitment issues after the fact cuz those posts uh are only so long. You know what I mean? If I crazy glue that on there. You know what I'll do is I'll secure it without crazy gluing it just to make sure that there's enough threads there to make that happen. I think that's a good idea. Okay, I taped the Lexan on there just so I could mark the holes. Now I'll drill those out. Okay, I got the holes drilled. They didn't align very well. And then I realized I only need two of the four holes. So, I made a new one. Just need these back holes here. And these align up nicely. So, time to dry fit this thing and see if it threads on. Okay. All right. Let's see what happens here. We're going to stuff a sock in it. Little baby T-Rex. There we go. Then you can expose yourself. Put this guy on here carefully. Didn't sound very careful. Okay. So far so good. Now my piece here. If I were to stick it on like that, I would say by golly, we definitely have enough threads available to make that work. Wonder what happens if I were just to screw it on just like that without even gluing it. Probably should glue it. Yeah. Okay. Uh either way though, once you know we squeeze that down a bit, there's lots of room there. So, I think that's going to work just fine. All right, it's surgery time. So, you only really get one crack at this. Pun not intended. So, I added a couple screws into the egg to help guide me. So when I go like this that it is actually lined up where it's supposed to go. Okay. So this is going to go like this. If I don't put on gloves, I'm going to get glue all over me. Hold on. This definitely has the potential to go horribly wrong. But we're just going to go for it. All right. This is a crazy glue gel. I don't see really any need to get too excessive with it. I was going to say crazy, but you can't use crazy two times in the same sentence. That's just rule of life. All right, here we go. Well, didn't go too bad, actually. So, I guess Oh, you can't see anything. See that? That ain't bad. So, I think I'm just going to hold this in place for the next 24 hours and I'll see you tomorrow. I can't hit the stop button with my glove on and my bare finger. Okay, welcome back. I hope you had a good sleep. I can finally release this. It's been 27 hours. Actually, it's been about 2 minutes. But, you know, once I add the um nuts onto this thing, then I won't need to hold it anymore. Right. So, let's get rid of these screws. and remove this tape. Do I want to remove the tape? Maybe I don't really need to remove the tape. Let's remove the most obvious tape at least. Got to be careful here so don't move my Lexan. Okay, I think that's going to be fine. This is the big test right here. Let's get rid of this glove. H. I think that's going to work. Add these nuts on. T-Rex, you're getting your nuts. Growing up to be a big boy. And tighten this up. Okay, longer shaft here to access nuts better. We don't need to crank it, but I'm pretty uh happy with that. I hoping that it works flawlessly and looks good. So, don't really see why it wouldn't, but you just never know. I did change things. So, let's see how it closes. That's going to be the big test. Does it close up relatively nicely? Ooh, yes, it does. That is perfect. So, the other side does flail out or spay out a little bit just cuz that previous repair, but uh I am happy with that. And I think like cosmetically I'm happy, but I also think mechanically it should be good. Can I uh get under T-Rex here? That's what he's going to say. [groaning] His name's Chewy. [snorts] But look at that. I don't need a new egg. Good thing cuz you can't really get one. Okay, on a bit of a roll and the night is still young. So, I think next thing I'm going to do is uh LED the playfield. That is exciting. Um, what else was I going to say? Um, there was something.
Thank god for sight B.
Thank god for sight B. That's what it was. Oh, yeah. I know what it was now. It was uh I was going to maybe replace the drop target, but you know what? LEDs are more fun. So, I'm going to do that now. So, have a last look here at the B4. You can barely see these inserts. Raptor targets a little more visible. This lost world. Barely see any of this stuff. That's a little loud. All right. So, next time I pass over, it's going to look a little different. Okay. What was that? I said something about LEDs being fun. Not the installation process, just the finished product, cuz my back is a little sore after all that, especially with this playfield not going up as far as it could. But as you can see, I've got lamp test on and just going over one last look here to see if I missed anything. And uh I haven't looked at the top side yet, but I don't see any uh incandescent glow. So, I think I might have got everything. Made a couple um artistic decisions, creative creative freedom, whatever you call that, because well, these two GPS inserts, they had uh green condoms on them like so. So, I went ahead and uh just went with green for now. You know what? I didn't make any artistic decisions. What am I talking about? I changed this one to purple. That's it. That's what I did. This was uh also a green condom bulb, but I thought there's a green insert there. Don't want two greens back to back. Don't want two whites back to back. So, I just I started with yellow, then I realized there's yellow here. So, we'll see how purple looks. Goes my screwdriver. Oh, I found a little Easter egg cuz I was doing the coin door lights. And check this out. Lost World. Code 43. Serial number. Back key is an HL002. Oh, and one other thing I found in the cabinet is a switch actuator. So, I'm not sure where that guy belongs or if he belongs at all. But if I find that I'm missing a switch, then I know where it is. Okay. Well, I think uh it's time to lower the playfield and see what this thing looks like. Okay. I turned it off. So, I didn't cheat. Don't know what it looks like yet. So, let's find out. It's going to go through its whole I can't find my balls, man. I don't know what to do. It says three balls [music] missing, which is not true. All four balls are missing. Ooh, have a look at this. Ooh, looking good. I do like my purple GPS. I see why it's supposed to be green to match these GPS guys, but maybe I'll make those guys purple. There's some creative liberties. That's the word I was looking for. Words. Okay, that's a pretty cool track mode. But let's uh go into lamp test here. Go into the portals menu. Lamp will go all. Oh yeah, you're going to dance around like that. It looks very flickery on video. Doesn't really look very good. Um, for the purposes of just making sure everything works. Look at this egg. Uh, it is functional. Extra ball. I wonder that's supposed to be more orange. This is a purple insert up here. JP. These guys were fun to access. I think I didn't miss anything. This lock light does look a little dim, actually. And so does this one. So does that one. Maybe just the nature of the inserts. So I'll check on those. But uh yeah, I'll check on those. I'll be back. Okay, I checked on those lock lights and they are in fact LED. I didn't miss anything. I ended up changing all three GPS inserts to blue, which I think looks pretty darn good actually. So, here's our passover of the complete LED job. I think I am content with how everything is. And um yeah, so next thing I have to do is just check on all the flasher bulbs. So, go into flasher test and make sure they're all working next. Okay, I'm just running flasher test and I have confirmed that every single flasher bulb does work. I didn't have to change a single one. All right, I think this is going to be the last thing. My back's getting a little cranky, but I am going to attempt to change the drop target now. It's going to be awkward, but I think four screws will allow me to loosen this and just kind of drop it here. I'm not going to desolder it and remove it completely. Uh, or should I? I don't really want to, but there is that weld going on there, but I think that's because that bracket just broke. And um unless I want to try and source a new bracket, then I don't really need to deal with that. Although changing that coil sleeve might not be such a bad idea either. Anyway, I uh going to take off four screws, see what happens, and uh I'll keep you posted. Okay, surprise surprise. As I got myself into a tiny small can of worms here once I removed the drop target assembly, I noticed this little connector here and then realized that uh this replace target is in such close proximity that it would be ideal to deal with it now as I'm dealing with the drop target. I do not have the replacement part, but you can see what they did here. I just stripped the wire and soldered it to the tabs there. So, it's clever but works. I'm going to desolder it. Removed the target. And then I'm going to take this I unplugged it. This target here. It's literally two screws. Pop that into this place. Plug it in. Um, tidy up the exposed wire. And then when I do get the replacement target, this is a nice accessible area, I could just pop it in instead of having to remove this whole assembly. So that is the plan. Okay, so here is the target installed. I just electrical taped and zip tied the exposed wires. That went smooth, no problem. And then once I get that target in stock, just pop that in. Two screws and a connector. As for the drop target, they certainly did not make this easy at all. Um, you got to remove two screws for this plate here. And then two screws for this plate here. And then there's two more screws on this plate so that you could remove this switch so that you could take the back off. So you could access the target. So thanks Sega. This is real fun. Okay, drop target installed. I have four screws left to go and then uh I am done. Nope, not finished. I got the drop target in bracket installed, but I forgot to change the coil sleeve. So I got to look at this bracket here. definitely been welded and repaired. And this coil is zip tied into place. So, I looked up the part number for the coil sleeve, and it is supposed to be a flanged sleeve, and it's supposed to be 2 and 1/4 in, but I don't have one. But I do have a hacksaw, so this is 2 and 1/4 in. We'll see if that works. Okay, so the surgery was a success. I installed the coil sleeve and here's the old one. You can see the old flange on there. So, the length was good. And because the flange holds the solenoid in place, um, the coil sleeve that is, it didn't have the need for the old zip ties that were holding the coil in place. Also didn't see any need for the electrical tape they had over the lugs here. And yeah, so I think that is really about it. I did um have to adjust the height of the drop target using these screws. It was a little bit too tall. It's protruding out a bit, but it pops up and it drops down. So just have to see if that actually works in gameplay now. But yeah, I think I'm um pleased with how that went. It was definitely a royal pain in the butt, but uh time to clean up my mess now. All right. Well, I'll say that was a pretty productive session. Definitely time to wrap things up. Let's turn on the machine and enjoy the fruits of the labors. Oh, let's uh also pull the interlock so we're live. And um let's try this drop target for the first time. But [snorts] let's pan back and just admire our handiwork. We did a good job, don't we think? Let's pat ourselves on the back. All right, let's hit the start button. See if the drop target pops up. That is the first step. There we go. Do
you know what world you've come to?
That is a good start. I did turn the volume back down cuz the track mode was um annoying. Huh. So, the shaker motor just kind of occasionally rumbles [music] while it's waiting in the shooter lane as this uh dinosaur [music] is trying to stomp on some humans. See if we can stomp on a human. Oh yeah. Did I hit the drop target? Cuz I heard [music] it fire.
Oh, that's cool. Fires right into that orbit. It's probably by design. All right, drop target time. Let's see if it registers. Yeah, two more for lock lit. Oh, that's how you light the locks. It was the drop target after all. All right, let's do one more snagger. What?
Uhoh. I hear some weird noises. [music] H. All right. Well, looks like uh we might have made one step backwards and I will be addressing that on the next episode cuz uh I'm done for now.

_(Acquisition: youtube_auto_sub, Enrichment: v1)_

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*Exported from Journalist Tool on 2026-04-13 | Item ID: 72e8a8fe-8f34-4ca0-9ba9-5cebff3f2781*