# How I Install Mezel Mods Underglow Kit on my Pinball Machines

**Source:** Cary Hardy  
**Type:** video  
**Published:** 2022-02-16  
**Duration:** 11m 17s  
**Beat:** Pinball

**URL:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zur7lywuo0

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## Analysis

Cary Hardy demonstrates how to install Mezel Mods underglow LED light kits on pinball machines, covering placement of three light bars (two playfield, one backbox), wiring methods, power isolation strategy using external arcade power supplies, wire splicing techniques with heat shrink, and mounting options. He shares his preference for isolating peripherals on separate power supplies to troubleshoot intermittent issues independently from the main game.

### Key Claims

- [HIGH] Mezel Mods light bars no longer include screw-in portions; they now rely on 3M tape adhesive — _Direct observation during installation; Cary compares current version to previous screw-in version he used on Getaway_
- [HIGH] Cary isolates all peripherals (underglow, flipper buttons, etc.) on a separate arcade power supply rather than using the game's 12-volt line — _Explicit preference stated and demonstrated; rationale is troubleshooting intermittent issues_
- [HIGH] Heat shrink wire connections made with twisted and folded wire are adequate for stationary cabinet applications but not designed for movement or tension — _Cary demonstrates the method, acknowledges limitation, and explicitly states it works for their use case_
- [HIGH] Blue underglow is significantly brighter than red and overpowers on camera — _Direct comparison observation between Getaway (red) and Johnny the Mnemonic (blue) installations_
- [HIGH] Mezel Mods light bars come with wires all the same length, requiring splitter connection to a single 12-volt source — _Direct observation of kit components and assembly instructions_

### Notable Quotes

> "I have never been a fan of utilizing the game's 12 volt. I like to isolate that."
> — **Cary Hardy**, ~2:45
> _Core philosophy on power management for peripheral mods; demonstrates technical best practice_

> "if you start getting any kind of intermittent issues I can definitely rule out the possibility of my peripherals being a cause of that"
> — **Cary Hardy**, ~3:15
> _Rationale for isolation strategy; troubleshooting methodology_

> "this isn't going to be the best way to go about doing this. This is just a simple, cheap way to combine two wires"
> — **Cary Hardy**, ~7:30
> _Honest acknowledgment of method limitations while defending it for stationary use_

> "it's not designed to be moved around or stretched or pulled or anything like that"
> — **Cary Hardy**, ~8:00
> _Clear disclosure of heat shrink twist-splice vulnerability; establishes context for method suitability_

> "The blue is much brighter than the red. I believe I'm going to have to separate my red getaway from my blue Johnny the Monarch."
> — **Cary Hardy**, ~13:45
> _Practical product observation; color variant performance comparison_

### Entities

| Name | Type | Context |
|------|------|---------|
| Cary Hardy | person | YouTube content creator demonstrating pinball machine modifications; owns multiple machines including Getaway and Johnny the Mnemonic |
| Mezel Mods | company | Aftermarket pinball mod manufacturer producing underglow LED light kits with multiple mounting options |
| Getaway | game | Pinball machine owned by Cary Hardy; has underglow kit installed (red); used as reference comparison |
| Johnny the Mnemonic | game | Pinball machine owned by Cary Hardy; receiving blue underglow kit installation shown in video |

### Topics

- **Primary:** Underglow LED installation and modification, Power supply isolation for pinball peripherals, Wire splicing and electrical connections
- **Secondary:** Mezel Mods product evolution (screw-in vs adhesive), Pinball machine maintenance and customization

### Sentiment

**Positive** (0.75) — Cary is enthusiastic about the mod, confident in his process, and helpful in demonstrating technique. Slight reservations about adhesive-only mounting vs prior screw-in design, and brightness level requiring machine separation, but overall satisfied with results.

### Signals

- **[community_signal]** Cary Hardy producing detailed DIY modification tutorial content for community; demonstrates educational support and knowledge-sharing within pinball enthusiast ecosystem (confidence: high) — Full-length video walkthrough with problem-solving (poor video quality acknowledged, recreated wire-splicing demo), tool recommendations (Harbor Freight heat shrink), and linked product availability
- **[product_strategy]** Mezel Mods underglow kits represent post-market aesthetic and functional enhancement for pinball machines; design evolution from screw-in to adhesive-only mounting suggests manufacturing/usability iteration (confidence: medium) — Cary notes design change: 'on this version they no longer have the screw-in portions to where you can screw it into the actual wood it's like they just want you to use the 3m tape now'

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## Transcript

 Alright guys, I'm here lying on my floor under my getaway just trying to get a good idea of how I'm going to be installing the same light kit that I've got underneath this machine, but I'm going to be doing the blue version of said mod for Johnny the Monik. so after seeing what I've done with this machine you know some time has passed and I'm like you know I think I'm gonna do it a little bit differently on my Johnny Mnemonic and we're gonna see how things go but just to show you where the placement is at on here let me show you what we've got going on so there we go we've got two bars light bars underneath the machine and one on the backbox so here are the three light bars they are the exact same size built the same way only on this version they no longer have the screw-in portions to where you can screw it into the actual wood it's like they just want you to use the 3m tape now which I don't know how I feel about that yet I think the screw-in version of it gave me more reliability but all wires are the same exact length and what they want you to do is connect them all to this splitter and then run it up to your MPU and gather it off the board's 12 volt. Now I have never been a fan of utilizing the game's 12 volt. I like to isolate that. By doing so I utilize if you can see it my probably can't oh my lord all right there we go so now that I got the game turned on you're able to see what's going on here. I've got all my peripherals on all my games. I have an arcade power supply like this wired in through my AC right there so when the game turns on this power supply turns on which therefore turns on my peripherals you know whether it be glow flipper buttons or under glow kit anything like that peripheral wise I like to isolate those on a different system so that way if I start getting any kind of intermittent issues I can definitely rule out the possibility of my peripherals being a cause of that. So that just the way I do it You don have to but this is my preference So I going to be wiring once again this mod into this to get the power port so what I going to be doing is screwing a hole on the far side of this side of the cabinet because I have less room for error due to this being right here I mean I could still make it work I think I've got just enough room right here to make sure I got plenty of clearance without having to like really measure whereas I've got nothing that's resting in the bottom of the side of this cabinet so I'm going to run the wiring through this side and I'm going to have to drill a hole in the cabinet which isn't too big of a big old deal and for those that start freaking out because a lot of times you got holes in the bottom of the cabinet like this one has some right now with t-nuts in there for whatever used to be down here but so I'm gonna have to draw one smaller hole just big enough to get the wires through. Alright so in order for me to get the wiring through there I obviously can't fit the connector through there. That's just not going to work. So I'm going to go about half way through where the first zip tie is at. That's plenty room right there and give it a quick little cut and then I'll run it through alright guys so as I did the recording I noticed that the video quality is quite poor when I'm working on the machine trying to show you how I'm combining these wires together in a you know just a simple matter so I decided to go ahead ahead and just take some spare wire and I'm just gonna recreate what I went about doing so that way you have a better idea on how to perform said task yourself so I'm gonna have two separate wires and we're just gonna imagine like this is a being cut trying to get their stuff on the ends here done okay so let's say I just cut the wires like so and I'm gonna need to recombine these two wires again so that way I've got continuity and it can actually you know work so strip off a little bit of said wire right there on on each end of this. So I've got that wire down. And this wire down as well. So now I need to recombine these two But before you go twisting these wires together this is when you gonna need heat shrink you can get a box of this at Harper Freight for pretty cheap so I'm just gonna use the correct gauge for the wire and I'm going to go ahead and slide the heat shrink wrap on one side like so now I'm going to twist these around then I'm going to fold one end down like that and then use the shrink wrap wire cover to cover it up once you've got it fully covered up take your heat gun you can use a lighter anything that's got a good enough heat and just cook this up to where it shrinks down. Then I'll push it in to make sure it's got a nice good grip on everything inside there. There you go and that's a simple way to make two wires connect and and you're good to go. The thing is, guys, this isn't going to be the best way to go about doing this. This is just a simple, cheap way to combine two wires, and if the wires are just resting inside of your cabinet, then you don't have anything to worry about, but this isn't designed to be moved around or stretched or pulled or anything like that. I could pull this apart right now if I wanted to. See, with a little bit of effort, a little stronger than I thought it would be it's not designed yeah see it's not going to be like great for rough and tough but for what we're doing this is perfectly fine but that is how i'm going about re-splicing the wires together when i'm performing this task on this upgrade kit and i just rinse and repeat that process right there on every wire that i cut all right so here we are up underneath it and here's the wire that I pulled through. I wiped down the area with IPA and now all I've got to do is remove the 3M tape on the bottom of it and straighten it out and then hopefully this stuff will keep it up and there's no other wires going anywhere else. It just goes straight into the cabinet right there. So when it comes to the rear end of the machine you have these holes that you're going to be able to utilize to put in the power connectors without having to drill anymore so there is that option and the same thing goes in the back of the cabinet you got these holes right here that work the same way so you have access points that way as well kind of like how i got on my getaway all right let walk through what i done so we've got a total of three light bars each light bar has two wires your ground and of course your power and i've got those going you can't really see it down there but i've got to get the vacuum and get the sawdust or the wood dust out from over there but they're all wired all three of them come to right here and then I've got them inside the 12-volt rail of this power supply So now, when I turn the machine on, you get this. and that is how i go about installing this mod for your pinball machine i will put a link in the description down below for you to get your own set and hopefully things go as smoothly as this one did for me. There are other ways to go about doing this including more than likely their preferred way by using the holes that are already in your machine but I preferred this method because of the light disbursement as well as how clean it looks without any visible wires. What I will say is the blue is much brighter than the red. I believe I'm going to have to separate my red getaway from my blue Johnny the Monarch. Kind of spread them out a little bit because the blue really does overpower and when it's on camera, it is even more intense. If you like what you've seen and you might have learned something, then give me the thumbs up. Subscribe button down below. Do not forget to ding that dong. That way you can be notified whenever I upload something for your viewing pleasure. And until next time, guys, peace out. Thank you.

_(Acquisition: youtube_groq_whisper, Enrichment: v3)_

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*Exported from Journalist Tool on 2026-04-13 | Item ID: a5380aa7-de4f-4e83-b2c1-7b292e34493b*