Episode 49 - Bingo Backglass Preservation

For Amusement Only EM and Bingo Pinball Podcast·podcast_episode·10m 46s·analyzed·Apr 29, 2015

Analysis

claude-haiku-4-5-20251001 · $0.016

TL;DR

Bingo backglass preservation: heat management, lamp swaps, and reproduction resources.

Summary

Nick Baldridge discusses strategies for preserving bingo pinball backglass artwork, focusing on heat management, lamp selection, and reproduction options. He recommends swapping 55-watt lamps for lower-power 47-watt alternatives to reduce heat damage, highlights reproduction services like COOS in Holland, and shares his experience with protective film that inadvertently damaged his Double Up backglass.

Key Claims

55-watt lamps generate approximately as much heat as 44-watt lamps and can be safely replaced with 47-watt alternatives to preserve backglass artwork
high confidence · Nick Baldridge, host, explaining lamp specifications and preservation strategy
COOS (Kuz) in Holland produces high-quality translight reproductions and will ship films internationally to construct custom backglasses
high confidence · Nick Baldridge citing COOS.net as a primary resource for reproduction translights
Heat is a primary factor in backglass artwork degradation, with longer exposure and higher temperatures accelerating ink separation
high confidence · Nick Baldridge discussing technical factors in backglass preservation
Chris Dade previously made translight reproductions for bingo games but his current status as a resource is uncertain
medium confidence · Nick Baldridge noting Chris Dade is not currently listed on Phil's resource site
The folding wooden lamp frame behind the backglass can scrape against glass if positioned flush against it during machine nudging
high confidence · Nick Baldridge describing mechanical wear factors in backglass damage

Notable Quotes

“The only difference is that I print mine on a single sheet, and his are printed on three different sheets. However, looking at his site, the reproductions appear excellent.”
Nick Baldridge @ ~2:30 — Compares his own translight reproduction technique to COOS's method, establishing credibility of both approaches
“55s generate an awful lot of heat. They produce about as much heat as a 44, and for those that are familiar with 44s, they've traditionally been swapped out for 47s, which are a lower power version of the same style of lamp.”
Nick Baldridge @ ~4:00 — Technical explanation of why lamp swapping is effective for backglass preservation
“The adhesive caused the ink to come up, and without that, it would have been fine. If the Plexi had been cut exactly the same shape and size as the glass that it was covering it wouldn't have been a problem.”
Nick Baldridge @ ~7:30 — Personal case study analyzing how protective film intended to preserve backglass inadvertently damaged it
“once you see it you can't unsee it, the small imperfections that come with a bit of missing artwork”
Nick Baldridge @ ~6:30 — Colloquial expression of permanent awareness of backglass damage
“I would highly suggest that 55s be exchanged for 47s, especially if you're planning to operate the machine for an extended period of time on any given day. This will preserve the back glass ink and has an unfortunate side effect of having dimmer light because they do use less power than their 55 counterparts.”
Nick Baldridge @ ~9:00 — Core recommendation balancing preservation against operational trade-offs

Entities

Nick BaldridgepersonCOOS (Kuz)personChris DadepersonFor Amusement OnlyorganizationDouble UpgameBallybingos in BritainorganizationPinsideorganizationRGPorganizationCOOS.netproduct

Signals

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restoration_signal: Detailed guidance on preserving bingo backglass artwork through heat management, lamp swapping, and reproduction options
high · Comprehensive episode dedicated to backglass preservation strategies including lamp specifications, heat factors, and sourcing
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restoration_signal: Documentation of commercial and community resources for obtaining replacement translights and backglasses
high · Detailed information about COOS.net reproduction quality, Chris Dade's previous work, and DIY translight printing techniques
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community_signal: Host sharing technical expertise and personal case studies with collector community across multiple platforms
high · References to Ballybingos in Britain forums, Pinside, RGP as resource hubs and calls to collector community for parts sourcing
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design_philosophy: Host's preference for incandescent lighting aesthetics over LED efficiency despite operational trade-offs
high · Statement 'I prefer the look of incandescence, as I said. I'm kind of an old fogey in that regard. I just think they look quite a bit better.'
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product_concern: Documentation of mechanical and chemical factors causing backglass artwork loss including adhesive damage and heat stress
high · Personal case study of packing tape removal damaging Double Up backglass; technical explanation of heat-induced ink separation

Topics

Backglass preservation techniquesprimaryHeat management in bingo machinesprimaryLamp specifications and replacement (55-watt, 47-watt, 44-watt)primaryTranslight reproduction and sourcingprimaryBingo pinball restorationprimaryLED vs incandescent lighting in backglasssecondaryCollector community resourcessecondary

Sentiment

neutral(0.45)— Informative and educational tone focused on practical preservation advice. Minor frustration expressed about the protective film mishap and uncertainty about Chris Dade's current availability. Positive regard for COOS's reproductions and community resources.

Transcript

groq_whisper · $0.032

what's that sound it's for amusement only the em and bingo pinball podcast welcome back to for amusement only this is Nicholas Baldridge in our last episode i talked about some things that you can do to prevent a back glass from being destroyed as far as the artwork goes so uh today I wanted to talk specifically about bingos and ways that you can, again, prevent the artwork from coming off. And what to do if you have a game with no glass. And where to go, what to do. So, if you are looking at a game and it's missing a glass, first thing to do after doing a Google search and seeing if there are any new old stock back glasses out there would be to see if you can get a reproduction from Coos over in Holland. At COOS.net, Kuz has found a way to make translights, which are more intense than the typical translight. And it's his technique that I've used in order to make my own translights. The only difference is that I print mine on a single sheet, and his are printed on three different sheets. However, looking at his site, the reproductions appear excellent. He also, if you lived in Holland, makes reproductions on actual glass, and will ship them to you. Or if you lived in Europe. However, I don't. I live in the US, and he doesn't want to ship glass internationally, which I completely understand. so in that case he will ship Translight films and then you construct your own they're as I say quite pretty it looks like they would certainly do well in the place of a missing back glass if you have a back glass which has artwork that is starting to flake or if you just want to keep your artwork intact on your glass and you already got the temperature under control because that factor one Factor two is the heat. So, the more heat and the longer it's applied to the back of the glass, the quicker the ink is going to separate. so as I mentioned in the previous episode LEDs are very popular because they are relatively inexpensive they can last longer than a traditional bulb and they provide a higher intensity light it's very directional but I prefer the look of incandescence, as I said. I'm kind of an old fogey in that regard. I just think they look quite a bit better. So, the bingos would use 55 lamps in all the odds, features, tilts, and across the red letter at the top. The only place that the machine called for 47s were in that special circuit that requires a certain amount of resistance between the 47 and the 55 in the red letter circuit. 55s generate an awful lot of heat. They produce about as much heat as a 44, and for those that are familiar with 44s, they've traditionally been swapped out for 47s, which are a lower power version of the same style of lamp. 55s are a globe-style lamp, and so they do look different than 47s. However, you can swap a 47 into the place of any 55 in the game except for the red letter bulbs, of which only one is lit at any given time. So, I have a double up, and when I purchased it, the back glass looked brand new. The back glass had packing tape applied to the back and a clear piece of plexi very thin behind it The sheet had protected the artwork, but unfortunately the packing tape started to peel after I had had it and been playing it for some time. And when it did finally peel, it took some of the artwork with it. Not a massive amount, but here and there, those that have been here before, next time you come over you'll see, once you see it you can't unsee it, the small imperfections that come with a bit of missing artwork. Now it's not flaking, there's no artwork that is coming off in sheets, none of that kind of bad stuff, but it is considerably less perfect than when I first brought it home. So, that's the only glass I've ever seen that had some kind of protective film on the back. And on the bingos, if the folding wooden piece that holds all the lamps behind the back glass is flush up against the back glass, as in there's not a whole lot of room for it to move then it can scrape against the glass as well when you nudge the machine. So I'm assuming that this person who had done this, the operator, had done this to protect the back glass and probably wasn't expecting the machine to continue to be used 40-some years after it was first produced. So I've got to say that his little trick did preserve the image on the back glass, but the tape is the thing that's the problem. The adhesive caused the ink to come up, and without that, it would have been fine. If the Plexi had been cut exactly the same shape and size as the glass that it was covering It wouldn't have been a problem But alas, that was not to be So There are a couple other folks that make bingo Translight sheets There a guy named Chris Dade Who at least used to make Translight repros and I looking on Phil site I don see his contact info on there anymore So I'm not sure if he's still doing that or not. But he used to be a resource for that. Personally, I would prefer to get a Translite sheet. It's cheaper. you get two pieces of plexi or two pieces of glass if you choose and sandwich it between it and there you go. It's all taken care of for less expense. As I mentioned, new old stock glasses do show up occasionally on eBay or via Google search. People just selling them. Craigslist, you never know. So keep a look out there too and reach out to the collector community over on the Ballybingos in Britain forums, Pinside, RGP, anywhere that pinball people congregate. It's possible that someone has the back glass that you need hanging up as artwork. It doesn't have the actual game and might be persuaded to trade with you for a bit of coin. So all that said, I would highly suggest that 55s be exchanged for 47s, especially if you're planning to operate the machine for an extended period of time on any given day. This will preserve the back glass ink and has an unfortunate side effect of having dimmer light because they do use less power than their 55 counterparts. But it's a small price to pay on something which could be irreplaceable. Well thank you again for joining me. My name is Nick Baldrige. You can reach me at foramusementonlypodcast at gmail.com. You can find us online at foramusementonly.libsyn.com. And you can listen to us on iTunes, Stitcher, Pocket Casts, via RSS, on Facebook, or directly on our website. Thanks again for listening, and I'll talk to you next time.