Hey guys, Retro Ralph here. Welcome back. In today's episode, we're going to do something a little different. So, one of the things I really love about this Arcade 1UP community is that everyone's doing these amazing modifications and they're really using deep levels of creativity and coming up with all these crazy awesome ideas. Well, one I came across is by a Facebook user, Chris Goizot, who actually is also the operator of a company called 317 Films. Chris has his hands in lots of different things, but I was really impressed with this modification that he made to an arcade one-up cabinet. So I reached out to Chris and said, hey, would you mind if we featured your modification in a deeper detail deep dive on my channel? And he's like, absolutely. So he went and created a video. I love it. You're going to love Chris's attention to detail. the other thing that I love of why I enjoy this modification so much is that he just thought about what he wanted the system to be right now and then what he wanted it to be in the future. So that foresight allowed him to develop something that's really versatile for what he may morph it into later on. So this segment that I'm running, this user submitted segment, is going to be something I'm going to want to do more of. So if you are a user who's proud of your modification and you don't mind showcasing it on the channel, I would love that. So without further ado, I'm going to kick it over to Chris right now, and I hope you guys enjoy it. Hey everyone, I wanted to do a breakdown and a small tutorial on how to modify your own arcade one-up cabinet like I did, and possibly do a breakdown of how much it costs to do something like this. As we go through this, I'll show you a diagram I created to help explain what exactly is going on in this glorious mess of wires. First off, Arcade 1-Up cabinets work great as kits, if you decide you want to go this route. ETA Prime did a great job in showing off how to modify these for a standard user. I personally wanted to go a few steps beyond and make this an advanced modification. Maybe this will inspire you to take it even one step further than I have. I'll even tell you some of the mistakes to avoid in doing some of this stuff. There were plenty. So get your creative spark out and let's jump into this. you notice the graphics This all came from ArcadeGraphics and it cost around for this conversion Super Smash Bros is one of my favorite Nintendo games and old school Nintendo is you could say a passion of mine If you do your own graphics, make sure your dimensions are correct. I realized that my bezel window was a little too narrow and had to re-measure and cut to the right size. size. Added buttons. I wanted to add a series of buttons but didn't want to modify the control panel overlay, so the buttons I added were two pinball buttons for player 1 and two buttons under the control panel for player 2. I also added two LED lit coin buttons. I had bought a set of white light up coin buttons, but when I saw the ones that looked like actual coin slots, I had to get those. I knew from the start I wanted the ability to host two other players, even if they were playing from USB joysticks, so I wanted to add the USB to the front. So I drilled out the holes and installed these that I got from Amazon. They were about $10 a piece. Adding a dolphin bar for light bin support wasn't something I had considered until I saw ETA Prime show off how it worked, and for $20 it seemed like a no brainer. Here is where I wish I had used my brainer just a little bit more. I knew I would need a hole for the USB cord to fit up under my marquee. The average width of a USB plug is 3 quarters of an inch. I took the marquee out of the machine and started to drill a hole right in the middle of the marquee. Problem, I didn't see that there was a screw right in the way. After drilling a half a hole and hitting the screw, I had to drill another hole just to the left of it. How did I not see that there? Oh well, the bar itself covers it fine. You can't even see it. I also added a holster on the side for the Wiimote light gun. This came off a Wii console game caddy and was originally used to hold the Guitar Hero guitar, perfect size. Before we get to the insides, you'll see on the back two LED strips. I thought about doing just one LED strip, but it wasn't as bright as I wanted it, and I didn't want to bend the strip, so I used two in an X pattern. There's another reason I did this, and I'll explain later. Oh, one other thing to note on the outside of the machine is the Nintendo Switch dock mount. If I'm doing a Smash Bros themed arcade, why not be able to play the Switch on this thing, at least on the monitor? By the way, the USB encoders don't work on the Switch by themselves. Chris, you may be asking, how can you do both, the Switch and the Raspberry Pi on this screen I get to that too Okay so now we opening this thing up Things we have going on are crazy but functional First things first we have the monitor PCB as in ETA Prime video but it isn going into the Pi no, it's actually going into this HDMI switch. The switch has three ports, one for the Pi, one for the Nintendo Switch, and the third one is for a PC. Yes, I'm also adding a PC to this mix. I don't quite have the PC that's going into this built yet, but I'm currently using my personal PC in its place for now. Playing current arcade-style games on an actual cabinet is amazingly fun, and my son and I get much enjoyment in playing things like Castle Crashers, Keyman, and other Steam games. Playing pinball is a low-key passion of mine, and I really dig how this cabinet handles those type of games. How can I get the joysticks and dolphin bar to be utilized for both the Pi and the PC? This brings me to the next piece of hardware, my USB switch. The USB switch has four ports. Plugged into it are two joysticks, the dolphin bar, and finally a USB hub, which has the dongle for my USB keyboard and mouse. This seems like a lot to be plugged into the USB switch, but three ports on the hub are utilized for the open ports on the front of the cabinet. Let me address now how I swap between each of the systems and USB controls. The HDMI switch itself swaps immediately to the port that initiates a signal. So if the Pi is on, I see the Pi on the screen. If a new signal, say from the Nintendo Switch, initiates a signal, the HDMI switch automatically switches to that one. When one is turned off, it reverts back to another active signal. Now, how do I swap the joysticks, etc., from one to the other using the USB switch? Easy! The switch comes with a button I've mounted on the top of the arcade, and it swaps over from one to the other, just by pressing the button. The priority of the joysticks do matter, so if player 1 becomes player 2 after switching, Just swamp the USBs on the switch, plugging in player 1 first, and then player 2 in the opposite ports. Fixed, no problem. Next on the inside is a lonely USB encoder. This is one of the USB encoders that can utilize power for button LEDs, so I mounted one, specifically for that, as my joystick encoders are not equipped to handle 5 volt power. LEDs I have lit up are for two coin buttons, the LEDs inside of the speakers, and the power buttons located on the top of the machine. The red one is for the Pi and the blue one is for the PC Speaking of power I use a 6 port surge protector which is utilized for the monitor PCB HDMI switch the amp the raspberry pi the Nintendo switch and a 4 port USB power brick Plugged into the brick are the USB encoder and the two LED strips. Though this may change, as the LED strips may eventually get plugged one into the pi and one into the PC, so when they are lit, you can tell which one of them is on or not. I could correspond the button color to the LED strip color, then you know exactly which one is on at any given time. One other thing I'd like to point out is the Player 1 button I have on top of the machine next to the power buttons. What's that all about? This is because of the Daphne emulator. If you run Daphne for games like Dragon's Lair, you may run into an issue with the encoders where moving left and right with the joysticks don't work correctly. The Player 1 button is linked to the encoder's joystick mode port, so when I hit it, it switches the joystick from digital d-pad to analog. There appears to be something messed up in the Daphne emulator code that only responds left and right movements to analog signals coming from the joysticks. I press the button once and it swaps to analog, and then hit it again to go back to digital. So if you have run into this issue, that's one way you can fix it. So that's it. Any future modifications I make may be to be able to connect two arcade one-ups together so that you can play four-player games on two different cabinets connected together via a USB and HDMI cable. I'll do an update if this happens. Alright guys, I hope you all enjoyed that. Chris really did a great job. So go check out Chris at 317 films on YouTube I'm gonna leave links in the description for all of the things that Chris does and I just want to thank Chris again for contributing that that's really great hopefully we can get more of you to contribute things like this as it's always fun to share in the experiences of modding these cabinets coming up with different new and unique ideas so guys thanks for watching if you like this video please subscribe to the channel Please hit that notification bell to be informed of future videos. And as always, thanks for watching guys. Take care.