WHIRLWIND 2.0 Total Chaos kit - How to install

Pedretti Gaming·video·18m 32s·analyzed·May 23, 2023

Analysis

claude-haiku-4-5-20251001 · $0.018

TL;DR

Pedretti Gaming Whirlwind 2.0 installation tutorial: remove original boards, install FAST CPU and PinSound XL, reconnect labeled connectors.

Summary

Pedretti Gaming provides a comprehensive installation guide for the Whirlwind 2.0 Total Chaos kit, walking through the process of removing original hardware (MPU and sound board) and installing replacement FAST CPU and PinSound XL boards. The guide emphasizes labeling connectors, careful cable management, and proper grounding, demonstrating a successful test boot at completion.

Key Claims

Whirlwind 2.0 Total Chaos kit includes FAST CPU and PinSound XL as replacement hardware
high confidence · Video explicitly shows installation of these components as part of the upgrade kit
Labeling connectors with tape and marker is recommended for less experienced installers but not required
high confidence · Presenter states: 'for those that are more experienced you don't necessarily have to label each connector however for those that have less experience this is a helpful step'
Connector J19 on the original MPU may come in two pieces (orange top, rest on bottom) and should be labeled as one unit
high confidence · Presenter directly addresses this: 'this connector right here 1j19 May in fact have two smaller connectors and see it comes in two pieces that's okay the orange goes on top'
PinSound XL board uses connector CN2 for incoming power and J2 for remote volume
high confidence · Presenter identifies these connectors during installation: 'we're looking for cn2 I believe or incoming power' and 'remote volume which is a little bit more Slack to j4 teen'
The Whirlwind 2.0 kit includes new display and speaker components that replace original backbox equipment
high confidence · Presenter removes original speaker panel and display, then installs new components from the kit

Notable Quotes

“for those that are more experienced you don't necessarily have to label each connector however for those that have less experience this is a helpful step when trying to install our new fast CPU”
Pedretti Gaming installer @ early in installation — Establishes difficulty level and accessibility of the kit to different skill levels
“this connector right here 1j19 May in fact have two smaller connectors and see it comes in two pieces that's okay the orange goes on top with the rest of the connector going on the bottom we'll just label this as one unit”
Pedretti Gaming installer @ connector labeling section — Technical detail addressing a specific assembly quirk that could confuse installers
“don't tighten down all of the screws until they are all entered we have them all put in and just put them in but don't snug them up now it is good to put all of the screws in because this will help I'm a better ground before the boards themselves”
Pedretti Gaming installer @ board installation — Best practice guidance emphasizing grounding through sequential screw installation
“this is going to be really embarrassing if it doesn't actually come on because I installed it wrong”
Pedretti Gaming installer @ final boot test — Humorous acknowledgment of installation complexity and stakes of proper execution
“hey there choose a game it warms the heart again congratulations we've got the install right enjoy the game”
Pedretti Gaming installer @ successful boot — Confirms successful installation and game functionality after completion

Entities

Pedretti GamingcompanyWhirlwind 2.0 Total ChaosproductFAST CPUproductPinSound XLproductFAST PinballcompanyWhirlwindgame

Signals

?
business_signal: Pedretti Gaming producing detailed installation content and beta testing infrastructure demonstrates commitment to user support and accessibility for complex upgrades
medium · Presence of beta tester providing comprehensive tutorial; emphasis on accessibility for both experienced and novice installers
$
market_signal: Whirlwind 2.0 kit positioning as turnkey upgrade solution for classic machines aligns with broader market trend toward modernizing vintage pinball without full replacement
medium · Kit maintains original cabinet/playfield while upgrading core electronics; targets existing Whirlwind owners seeking modernization
?
product_strategy: Whirlwind 2.0 Total Chaos represents significant hardware modernization upgrading classic machine with FAST CPU and PinSound XL audio system, addressing aging original electronics
high · Video demonstrates complete replacement of original MPU and sound board with modern alternatives; new display and speakers also included
?
technology_signal: Migration from original MPU/sound board architecture to FAST CPU platform indicates industry trend toward standardized, upgradeable control systems for classic games
high · Whirlwind 2.0 kit design explicitly accommodates FAST hardware in original mounting brackets, suggesting modular retrofit approach

Topics

Hardware upgrade and modernizationprimaryInstallation procedures and best practicesprimaryConnector labeling and cable managementprimaryClassic game remakes and restorationsecondaryDIY pinball modificationsecondary

Sentiment

positive(0.82)— Presenter is encouraging and celebratory throughout, with helpful troubleshooting tips and humor. Successful boot test reinforces positive outcome. Minor tension around complexity acknowledged with humor rather than negativity.

Transcript

youtube_auto_sub · $0.000

I'm one of the beta testers here at pedretti gaming on Whirlwind 2.0 today I'm going to walk you through how to remove your old equipment install your new PIN sound XL and fast CPU and get you up and going so in addition to the equipment that you found in your Whirlwind kit I'm going to say that you need Phillips screwdriver for removing the screws from the boards as well as painters tape and a Sharpie now this is these are necessary but we're going to use these to label all of our connectors on the boards and make sure that we get those connected right on the thin sound and fast CPU now for those with a little bit more experience again that's not necessary but for those that are this may be your first install it's probably a useful tip so you start by removing our backlights now we have a lift channel here we should be able to just lift up and take it out of place now keep in mind there is a lock right here so if you're unable to lift up your back glass and pull it out just as easy as I did make sure that this is unlocked set this to the side additionally before we go further we want to make sure that your gain is turned off and unplugged especially before we go start unplugging wires to lift and move the display we simply lift up take it out like to open the backbox or get the light board out of the way you lift it up pull out now you may notice that this looks different because I'm filming this out of order I've already installed this so go ahead and we'll see a fancy transition here or a really bad one to where we're actually removing the board now that we have access to our backbox we're going to do a few different things first we're going to unplug the ribbon cables move them out of the way and set those aside for future use we're also going to label each one of the connectors on the npu and the sound board that we'll need this is where our masking tape painters tape and Sharpie come in handy now for those that are more experienced you don't necessarily have to label each connector however for those that have less experience this is a helpful step when trying to install our new fast CPU so we'll Begin by unplugging all the unnecessary ribbon cables again just setting them aside the wheel needs one at least in the future they pull straight out they're a friction lock so nothing too special as well as the ribbon cable going to our display also we can remove the connector going from our sound board to our mpu now this is going from J1 on the sound board to j15 we can set this aside and it will not be used moving forward but again we're just moving this out of the way to make a little bit more space for us to label now the labeling for the connectors is stenciled near each connector they will all start with a 1j on the mpu so this connector is stenciled 1j1 1j2 1 j3 this one goes all the way to 1j8 so we're just going to take those off and again use our tape number one okay one we'll proceed to unplug each one and the label them appropriately keep in mind that this connector right here 1j19 May in fact have two smaller connectors and see it comes in two pieces that's okay the orange goes on top with the rest of the connector going on the bottom we'll just label this as one unit now that we have all of our connectors removed and labeled appropriately we can start to remove all of the screws holding down the sound board and our original mpu take your Phillips screwdriver left be Loosely to remove each one of the machine screws set them aside as we will use these to install our new boards good keep these set them aside obviously we won't be using them moving forward but it's always nice to have a backup now removing the mpu itself can be a bit tricky as we do have a lot of wires in the way so don't be afraid and some of the wires are moved but they will get caught on the connectors unfortunately this is just nature of the Beast pulling it the bottom I'm just trying to slide it out like that there we have it next we will take our new fast CPU and we'll install it on the right hand standoffs so go here again put this in here don't tighten down all of the screws until they are all entered we have them all put in and just put them in but don't snug them up now it is good to put all of the screws in because this will help I'm a better ground before the boards themselves so we should have one two three four five little screws for this board and now that we've put them all in I'm start snugging them up now there's not a specific methodology your side to side corner to corner what have you as long as they're all snugged in making good compact we'll also do the same for our skin sound XL board now this is a little bit different we can put the screws in beforehand as you can see then slide the board over so what we'll do is we'll go ahead and put these screws in and get this guarded and then we'll worry about snugging them up after we put the board on now that we've installed our new boards it's time to reconnect our connectors as you know previously we labeled each one of the connectors which corresponds to the location on the fast CPU similar to the original mpu connector is stenciled with the number on it we also have two extensions the yellow and the white which correspond to the same similarly colored original connectors this is so we get a little bit more space so we can mount the fast CPU in the original mounting brackets if you look you probably can't see on the video but each one of these is pinned correctly there we go so that way it does correspond with the original connectors the yellow we labeled earlier which I have right here there's empty j7 the white labeled 10 corresponds to J10 only now we'll move on to doing our connectors on the pin sound XL so for this one you the main connector we need to worry about is our incoming power now similar to this the mpu board we have lots of stenciling telling us what the connectors are on the thin sound XL on this one also you may have a wire tie that you'll need to snip to be able to bring that power over here now we're looking for cn2 I believe or incoming power which is labeled on the board similarly we have our remote volume which is a little bit more Slack to j4 teen rather far connector here and it's labeled coin box volume J2 system 11. this connector here will not be utilized it's here hanging you won't need to connect it you don't have to do anything with it so that's normal for this now that we have all of our connectors connected we have everything labeled appropriately we can then proceed to remove our our display and our speakers now that we have just our backbox open and our credit replacing speaker panel there we go speaker panel out we can proceed to remove all of the connectors from it will not be used going forward again friction lock connectors they just pull straight out now this cabling will not be used in the kit going forward so you're more than welcome to remove it completely from the backbox although I'm going to leave it there for future use if needed similarly the connector here for the lights on the bottom can be removed and this corresponds with the connector 10 to the aux cable on the board this will not be used going forward either just going to put it there out of the way we have our speaker connectors we unhook those that will not be used and you may have a grounding cable here on the speaker we'll need to use our Phillips screwdriver and remove that connection all right now that that's disconnected we'll set this out of the way our new shiny display and speakers so this will have obviously a number of cables not to worry unravel everything that'll be nice there we go all right so these will be installed in the backbox but first always going to install our grounding I'm going to put this unscrew the screw reinstall our grounding cable now you will have two different speaker wires all connected to one plug this orange connector will go right here over the board this will connect both of your backbox speakers as well as give you the plug for your bait or cabinet speaker cabinet speaker connector is located here in the bottom it's an orange is some yellow stripes or yellow stripe excuse me simply disconnect and connect our new connector voila all right now we're coming down the home stretch we've got a few more connectors to connect and then we'll be ready to fire it out so if you've made it this far you're doing good hang in there yeah the power connector to the display four pin this will go right here again has two prongs place it down you have a USB connector micro USB now this one's a little bit tricky on the back side right here it's where micro goes a little bit challenging to get to there we go we're in this will connect to our pin sound board just run this up into that also we have our HDMI cable this will run from the display after we're done we'll you'll want to take this take all the labels off maybe get some wire ties make it cleaner but for now I think we're ready to test well almost we've got a ribbon cable the last remaining cable will go from here connector J2 now if you look I always screw these up to be fair you'll have a label one that usually corresponds with the red line on our ribbon cable now if you mess it up don't worry it doesn't blow anything up just won't be right and also red cable left let's hope that does it all right if you follow the instructions from start to finish good for you you are officially installed and ready to go so all that's left finalize the installation Beaker pan and again I would go back and clean up the wiring install the speaker panel install our sweetened glass now this is going to be really embarrassing if it doesn't actually come on because I installed it wrong hey there choose a game it warms the heart again congratulations we've got the install right enjoy the game and thank you much foreign