Hm. I wonder what is on the uh radio today. Let's see what we got.
Discrimination um and and failure to accommodate essentially. But it is also possible. Maybe one in a 100 chance. I don't know. But it is possible.
One in 100 chance. I'm Mike Dus and this is Pinball Shenanigans. [Music] Okay, I think it is uh time for round three of Close Encounters of the Third Kind. If you're uh just tuning in, I've been trying to bring this Close Encounters the Third Kind back to life. Was stored away for approximately 30 years from a prominent doctor in Windsor apparently and it was working when he put it away. And uh you know, I didn't exactly just uh holy traffic. Wow. I didn't exactly just put it all together and uh turn it on because uh I knew that wasn't going to work because the battery had rotted the MPU away and um so many connectors are in very rough shape. So anyway, I've been working diligently on this for a couple episodes and uh today's plan, I think, is to um repin the last nasty connector, throw in the driver board that I have that uh should work 100%. Connect the playfield, connect the displays, and turn it on and see to what degree we have life. So, I think uh this machine is going to clean up very nicely. It's in nice shape overall inside and outside. It was nasty uh to do a lot of cleaning, but it's definitely coming along. So, I got a couple hours I can uh putter away on this thing. So, uh I'll see you over at the uh storage. All right, here we are. And I should probably make a correction. I don't know that this was stored for 30 years. I think maybe the doctor had it 30 years. Not really sure how long it's been in storage, but you know, definitely enough for it to uh get pretty crusty, but definitely looking a lot better. Now, I'm going to just kind of like go over the metals, clean them up a little bit better. I'm going to use some WD40 to try and free this uh receiver bar latch, which is so stiff. It's starting to come free after releasing it for the first time in who knows how long, but uh need some WD40. And then I brought my Windex so I can clean this back glass since I've done the rest of the exterior. And then I will also just add a little spritz to the back windows. I don't really want to mess with the art at all. Just want to get the windows so they're nice and crisp. So start with that. And then the connector that goes here. No connector that goes here. This is going to be very corroded. And I think that actually comes from the playfield. That might be this guy here. Let's see. Yep, that's the guy. So hopefully I can get all those pins out without too much trouble. These should be in good shape. Please be in good shape. They're not near the uh battery damage zone. So, those look to be in good shape. Uh, how about these guys? They actually look pretty good. So, what I'll do is just put the playfield by my little makeshift workbench here and just kind of have the connector right here so I can work at that. And then I'll pop in my driver board. Like I said, got this guy right here. 100% working according to Roger Cohat. You better not be lying to me, brother. He did uh do me a solid and tested this for me and even uh replaced a transistor that was bad. So, oh, looks like there's some notes here. Tip 102. Maybe that's the one he replaced. I do not know. So, we'll pop that in there. Not even going to bother testing this. Actually, maybe I should, but uh anyway, that's the plan for starters. So, uh let's get started. See that? That's a little bit of blue. And these windows are filthy as you can see. But there is a bit of blue trim around the edge there. So, as soon as I saw blue, I uh eased off a bit. But looks like no damage was done. But that's what I mean. You got to be very freaking careful. Um you can just like literally take Windex to the apron, try and clean it, and there goes your blue and red ink. can happen just like that within one swipe. So, I'm guessing that is a little bit of that paint, but came out okay. Um, I don't think it is the blue window itself, is it? I feel like it's more the blue border. Uh, but let's not mess around with it anymore. Let's uh I'll just do the front side now. Okay, the back glass is done. And I spent a little bit of time on the head frame inside and out and it came out a lot more yellow. Little magic eraser. Helped with that. So, I'm happy with how that looks. And then I uh Oh, yeah. I kind of just went over the metals again. Seemed to it's just had like some film on it from my last cleaning. And same with the coin door, but uh it's looking good. And then this latch. It's still a little stiff, but it's better. Okay, so I'm kind of ignoring the playfield for the moment. And I've got everything else hooked up. This is the connector that powers the displays and our 60 and 40 volts. Then I've got my harness connected from the MPU to the driver board. I've got this connector here that goes down to the cabinet. Uh, it goes to those diodes down there. You can't see. Crap. How about that? You kind of see that's where that connector goes. And anyway, yeah, that uh or is it this one? Wait. Okay. So, this guy kind of goes more to the right side of the cabinet and this guy goes to the left side. So, whatever that means. I've got everything connected except the playfield. The playfield is these three connectors, the driver board and this connector for the MPU. So, I'd like to think that we're going to at least get some displays. That would be nice. Maybe I should keep this open in case something starts happening on the uh driver board. But let's just see what happens. Ready? 3 2 1. How about we turn on the power bar in 3 2 1. Okay, we got to give it a few seconds to boot up. Make sure there's no I don't know if you heard that, but we just got sound. And I could tell that all the chimes are working. All the fake chime sounds, all the tones. So, that's good. And wow, I can't believe it. All the displays work. Player three needs a little bit of a charge, but uh we're getting closer, boys and girls. Let's have a look at this. Yeah, we're getting closer to the encounter. Do we have the coin door lights yet? No. Probably a couple bad bulbs. Okay. Well, how do I uh Where's the volume pod on this thing? Uh oh, it's right on the soundboard, isn't it? It's that blue Oh, you can't probably hear a thing I'm saying. It's that blue dial. Let's adjust that and let's turn it off and on again. See if we can uh hear the audio. See if it's louder or quieter. Uh what's happening? Okay, definitely quieter. So, let's go this way. Try again. Actually, I forget which way I turned it. So, hopefully this is the opposite way. This is as far as I can get towards me. Come on, audio. Oh, just barely. Okay, one more try. Oh, yeah. That's going to be it. That's going to be it. Oo, a little squelchy. Okay, get ready for it. Close Encounters coming to life in three, two. A little scratchy on the last couple tones there, but I might just need to uh add some contact cleaner to that volume potentially or receat the connector for the sound. So, this is all good news. All right, I will uh deal with this um connector now. Now that I know that things are looking pretty good. Okay, I added some contact cleaner to this volume pot. I'll let that dry for a while before I turn it on cuz this is very explosive. And I receeded this connector a few times. So, we'll see if that helps. You know what? Probably should change these capacitors, but uh we'll deal with that later. If you didn't see the last episode, I got to tell you, my new strategy with a thumbtack and a hammer to remove these uh old pins is actually working really good. I mean, maybe it helps that every single one of these terminals is actually broken, but uh yeah. So, I just like set it on the edge of something like that. I hammer that thumbtack right down all the way. Remove the thumb tack and the wire just pops out magically. It's working beautifully. All right, success yet again. I don't know that uh you know all these were actually broken or the act of smashing a thumbtack down into the terminal slot causes the terminal to be busted in half. But either way, the strategy works and uh can preserve the old connector and it doesn't take much effort. I like it. Voila. All of my terminals are installed. The only reason I did it this way is because I wanted to ensure that I was actually able to remove every wire out of this connector before I proceeded cuz I didn't want to get like halfway through and then be completely stuck on one terminal and then have to uh you know figure something out. I didn't want to deal with a roadblock midway down the road. So, normally I just do one wire at a time, but good thing I took like 40 photos just to make sure that I put these in the right slot. All right, mission accomplished. This has got to be the finest repinning job on an edge connector I have ever done. I'm pretty happy with that. So, with that, I think it's time to install the Playfield. All right, playfield is installed and connected. So, the moment of truth here. There's the three connectors there. The freshly repinned A1 J7 there. Going to leave the backbox open so we can see if there's any uh smoke coming off the driver board. I'm sticking this rusty old ball that the machine came with cuz I think it wants to have a ball in the out hole to be happy. All right. So, let's peek around the corner here as we turn this on in three, two, one. Okay, I'm watching for any locked on solenoids. Ooh, I should have checked all the solenoids on the playfield first. Oo. Hey, that sounded crisp. And no fire started down there, so that's good. It's a little loud. Turn it down a bit.
Oh my god, I just heard the radio. Listen. Sometimes it's a bit of fine from the neighbors, but I promise you it's going to
Can you hear that? I've had this happen to me once before, but I can totally hear the radio. Can even hear what they're saying. It's a guy and a girl. Anyway, I don't know if that has something to do with the cell phone, but whatever. It's a thing. Okay, so no fires on the driver board. We have general illumination on the playfield. Well, I guess the only thing left is to try and start a game. Uh, these switches are not very accessible. Hey, I stole a quarter out of Ripleys, believe it or not, earlier today off of Dutch's machine. Let's stick that in here and see what happens. Okay, ready. Uh, not a whole lot happened there. Just fell right through. Let's try the other side. Also fell right through. Why is that? Okay, I'm going to have to um I think I have to remove the coin mech to really gain access to the switch. I'm getting a little dusty here. Okay, I'm going to uh be right back. I need both hands. Okay, I got the one mech removed to expose the switch. Let's see if it adds credits. Okay. What about this side? See this little wire down here? See, it's like sandwiching the switch over here. Maybe that does not want to be like that. Maybe that is better. Okay. How about this side? No. Okay. So, maybe something is funky with the wiring. Um, I'll have to uh delve a little deeper. I'll be back. Okay. I just noticed something. This is weird. data CR5. I don't know what that means, but maybe it's not a switch issue and maybe it is a uh NIW CPU issue. So, we'll have to see what that's all about. Okay, so it dawned on me that I didn't actually select Close Encounters of the Third Kind on the MPU. So, normally you go like this. You hit that And then you scroll through the options. There's data hardware options and I went through every single setting and that didn't work. So I'm trying to look on the internet. I'm not having a whole lot of luck. And then I remembered that I actually brought a manual. And on the older Nywump boards, it's actually dip switches that be used to change the game. So for Close Encounters, we need the top four dip switches to be on, on, on, and off, which they are. Now, I did have the uh CPU freeze up on me at one point. So, I just receded the power going in and seemed to bring it back to life temporarily. So, now we're actually set to close encounters. We've got the proper uh stuff displaying on the displays. No error message or whatever. But I think did it say like 353 or something before? because uh that is the number that is on the uh the like ROM chip for the MPU. So, it's like that model number. Let's see if there's a equivalent here. Yeah, actually see this window here. There was a paper on there that I think came off. That needs to be covered up, but it says 353 on the one that's in there right now. So that's the current code or whatever. So let's see if that will help us start a game. I highly doubt it. Well, it actually worked. Okay. Soundboard does sound a little sketchy. So maybe I will bring that to Corey tomorrow and uh see if he wants to rebuild it for me. Okay. Well, there's a slight chance we might actually be able to play a game here. So, here goes nothing. [Music] Well, the ball didn't quite make it over to the shooter lane, but we're in uh game mode. Score is zero. All right, let's see uh what happens here. Right flipper button, left. We're live, boys and girls. See what happens here. [Music] Okay, the rotary thing is trying to turn, but it's not. Pop bumpers are working. Yeah, rotary's dead. [Music] I tried to turn that down multiple times. Uh, drop target registered. Out hole did not. Still ball one. You know, some some semblance of life here. Let's see if the spinner works. [Music] All right, let's uh let's just use my hand here. Okay, let's get very excited. I like to think that's supposed to reset. that. Oh, wait. Kind of kicked into place there. No. Okay. Uh, slingshots. Oh, that's not a slingshot. Like joker poker switch. Think some switches are maybe a little too close together. Is that the spinner? Three spins. Rebound switch and should be a rebound switch up here maybe. Nope. Straight the lanes. Pop. Pop. Switch here. Okay. Well, that's a start. Say we're halfway there. Got to go over every switch and solenoid. Figure out. I've never really worked on one of these things before. So, I think there's a fuse or two maybe under the playfield. Maybe that shot. But, uh, you know, in theory, we are playing close encounters. There we go. Yeah. Okay. I'm going to see if I can tackle like a thing or two and then I'm going to wrap this up. out hole was just an maladjusted switch. So, let's see if this works now. There we go. All right. Look what I found. A fuse under the playfield. Oh, and there's a transistor there, too. So, I have to keep my eye on that. Couple relays. And also someone has changed one of these diodes They look to be okay though. But maybe that what is it? 2 amp slowblow fuse might get my uh roto wheel up and running. Okay, I got a new fuse in there. Let's power on the machine and see if it blows. Well, did you see the uh roto wheel kind of jiggle there? Someone is kind of cranked up. That volume just does not want to go down. Celery cap talk. Okay. So, yeah, someone just tightened that tension spring there. If you do this, it does spin freely. Uh, okay. Well, put the playfield down and see if that also gets the drop targets going as well as the spinny wheel. All right, let's try this again. Oh, see that? Sweet. That's a cool little feature. As soon as you start the game, it just spins. Is that like in between? Yeah. See that? Supposed to have latched there. That was not quite quite set right or settle right, but let's see if it spins. [Music] 5,000. Add bonus and spin roto. Oh Why didn't it spin roto? How about this guy? This guy. How about hitting the roto? No. Did my fuse blow again? [Laughter] [Music] We didn't check this switch. It works. I'm feeling that fuse blue. All right, let's see what we got here. Uh, yep. She gone. Okay, I'll have to figure out what caused that. Could be the transistor. I don't really know. Uh I'll have to do some research, but that is a thing that is going on the to-do list. These fuses, they all still appear to be intact, but you're never supposed to trust your eyeballs. But if one was black, then you can trust your eyeball. All right. There's one other thing going to have to put on the to-do list. It's kind of working now. Oh, there we go. Oh, no. That worked. Took a few tries the one time. Okay, wants to work now. So, maybe it doesn't need to go in the to-do list, but either way, I'm going to wrap this video up. Made some halfdeent progress. Still lots of work to do to get this thing 100%. And I don't even know that I can trust that. NWump MPU because it did lock up on me once and my notes say it was going to game over. So, that is uh the juryy's still out on that, but anyway, we're getting there. Quick little addendum here. Just checking the uh schematics out. And this 2 amp slowblow fuse does in fact control the roto unit and drop target bank. Not control, but you know what I mean. So the only other thing they each have a diode 1 N40044 but there is that transistor that's under the playfield 2N5875. I'm guessing that is the culprit here. So you have to stay tuned to the next episode and we shall hopefully find