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This Mod Makes Godzilla Pinball Even Better! (Atomic Godzilla Install)

Wild Dog Arcade·video·15m 21s·analyzed·Mar 12, 2026
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claude-haiku-4-5-20251001 · $0.019

TL;DR

Wild Dog Arcade installs Mojo Mods Atomic Godzilla interactive LED mod on their Stern Godzilla Pro.

Summary

Gary from Wild Dog Arcade installs Mojo Mods' Atomic Godzilla interactive lighting mod on their Stern Godzilla Pro machine. The mod upgrades the Godzilla figure with green coloring and LED spine lighting that syncs with gameplay (static illumination via GI, pulsing when the Newton ball magnet is hit). Installation involves mounting the figure topside, routing wiring underneath the playfield, and connecting to existing GI and switch circuits via splicing and connectors.

Key Claims

  • Mojo Mods released an interactive Godzilla mod with green coloring and interactive lighting on back spines

    high confidence · Gary (Wild Dog Arcade) describing the mod being installed

  • The Atomic Godzilla mod includes an extended package option with premium/LE airball plastics, wiring harness, board mount, and Lolly board

    high confidence · Gary describing kit contents

  • The mod integrates with the Newton ball switch to create pulsing LED effects when the magnet is triggered

    high confidence · Gary demonstrating functionality during gameplay

  • Installation requires splicing into existing GI socket wiring if other mods are already present

    high confidence · Gary's hands-on installation showing soldering and splicing techniques

  • Wild Dog Arcade already had a Stumbler Mods mod tied into the same GI bulb socket

    high confidence · Gary mentioning pre-existing mod requiring wire splicing work

Notable Quotes

  • “So, Mojo Mods came out with a interactive Godzilla mod. So, this one here is green. It's going to have some interactive lighting on the back spines”

    Gary (Wild Dog Arcade)@ 0:37 — Introduces the mod and its key features

  • “I already have one of the Stumbler Mods that ties into this exact this exact bulb. So, what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to splice the other wire so I can get the power to the Lolly board for this mod.”

    Gary (Wild Dog Arcade)@ 7:13 — Shows complexity when multiple mods coexist; real-world installation scenario

  • “I always tend to try to solder all my connections rather than do crimp style connectors cuz they tend to vibrate loose, not be as nearly as robust as a heat of a solder.”

    Gary (Wild Dog Arcade)@ 8:38 — Technical best practice for pinball mod installation

  • “So, you can see Godzilla is he's on his uh spikes are actually lit. You can kind of see them right here. So, there are two parts of this mod. One is the GI where they're just lit. The second one is when you actually hit the capture ball magnet. Now, they pulse.”

    Gary (Wild Dog Arcade)@ 14:12 — Describes dual-mode lighting behavior and interactive element

  • “I like the old mod, but I love this one.”

    Gary (Wild Dog Arcade)@ 14:54 — Preference for Atomic Godzilla over previous plastic/figure upgrade

Entities

Wild Dog ArcadeorganizationGarypersonMojo ModscompanyGodzillagameStern PinballcompanyStumbler ModscompanyLolly BoardproductNewton Ballproduct

Signals

  • ?

    product_launch: Mojo Mods released the Atomic Godzilla interactive lighting mod with multiple package tiers (standard and extended with airball plastics)

    high · Gary installing and demonstrating the new mod on his machine; mod includes multiple components (figure, board, wiring harness, mount)

  • ?

    design_innovation: Atomic Godzilla mod integrates with game hardware (GI circuit and Newton ball switch) to create dual-mode lighting (static and pulsing)

    high · Gary demonstrates static spine lighting during normal play and pulsing effects when Newton ball magnet is triggered

  • ?

    collector_signal: Godzilla Pro owners are adopting premium figure and lighting upgrades (plastic figure first, now interactive Atomic Godzilla) to improve visual match with game artwork

    medium · Gary replaced stock plastic with figure earlier, then upgraded again to Atomic Godzilla for color/integration match

  • ?

    technology_signal: Modern pinball mods require splicing into game electronics; installers are adopting soldering best practices over crimp connectors due to vibration robustness concerns

    high · Gary soldering and heat-shrinking connections rather than using crimp connectors; explicit discussion of vibration loosening issues

  • ?

    operational_signal: Operators/collectors with multiple mods must manage shared power/signal lines; requires careful splicing and knowledge of existing mod integrations

    high · Gary's existing Stumbler Mods mod required splicing the Atomic Godzilla harness into the same GI socket; complexity managed via soldering

Topics

Pinball Modifications and CustomizationprimaryGodzilla Pinball (Stern)primaryLED and Lighting ModsprimaryTechnical Installation and WiringprimaryMojo Mods ProductsprimaryInteractive Game MechanicssecondaryPro vs Premium/LE Machine VariantssecondaryContent Creator/Operator Use Casesecondary

Sentiment

neutral(0)

Transcript

youtube_auto_sub · $0.000

Today on the Wild Dog Arcade, our Godzilla gets green with envy. Welcome to the Wild Dog Arcade. I am Gary and today I'm going to walk you through installing an upgrade to our Godzilla figure. So, I had already updated this one from the Stern Plastics. This is a pro machine, so all it had was a plastic and I upgraded to this figure. It looks really nice, but it's kind of dark. doesn't quite match the Godzilla art on the machine. So, Mojo Mods came out with a interactive Godzilla mod. So, this one here is green. It's going to have some interactive lighting on the back spines, and we're going to walk you through this install. So, follow along. All right. The first thing I did was I actually pulled the glass, shut the game off, and unplugged it. Next, I slid the playfield out into the service position, and then propped the back of the playfield up. You can see the little clamp and microfiber cloth. I've got one on each side. That brings up the Godzilla up to a more reachable position. It's not down inside the cabinet. So, this top side will be really easy to work on this way. All right. First thing you're going to want to do, at least for us, is I need to remove the Godzilla that we put on there. He's only held on by one screw and a zip tie. So, I'm going to remove those right now. All right, Godzilla is out. So, this last one you don't have to take all the way uh off. It's actually got a slot. So, just pull them off the two studs and slide it out. All right. Now, we're going to move on to the 1/4in uh screw. So, pull that completely out. to keep the hardware. You will be reusing this for the new Godzilla. So, plastic comes right off and you can keep that in your coin box in case you ever need to revert. All right. The new Godzilla is going to go right in place of where that piece of plastic you just removed is. So, there is going to be a wire that you're going to have to route and you it goes under this plastic. So, this plastic you can flex up enough to get it out of the way. There is a hole right in the back where you're going to feed the wire out the bottom of the playfield. So you basically route it out the hole and then tuck it right by this hex post so it'll be m nice and neatly hidden. So first thing you want to do is route the wire. So bring it up, drop it into the hole and reach under it to to take care of that. Now then move the wire into this little gap right there. And then as you're putting the Godzilla down, you can feed you pull the wire down inside and get it to go. And this will drop right onto the same existing stud locations on there. So, this will be a nice nice hidden It's all hidden in the back. You can't really see it from this view, but when you tuck it right by that hexost, it'll disappear. So, now we're going to move on to redoing the screws. All right, let's reattach this thing. So, I'm going to do it in reverse order. I'm going to put the uh little 1/4in screw right in the rail. Get it in place. And then let's drop the nyllock nuts onto the studs. And then the third one in the back, which is another nut. All right, it's in place. Let's tighten down the out outer rail first. Now, you don't need to be too tight. It's just plastics. Just strong enough not to move around. You don't want to crack anything. So, Ed Boon. Godzilla is in there. So, now we're going to put the playfield down, lift it in the service position, and do all the wiring underneath. All right. So, you've seen me put the Godzilla on. That came with the mount already attached to it. I did get the extended package which contains a number of things. Uh, one, it's going to have the premium and LE airball plastic. So, it's a little bit different if you have an LE or premium game. You can see that there in the upper right. U, it also has a wiring harness. You can see this is going to tie into the existing game. And then it's got a LOI AGZ board mount and then the LOI board. So this is going to give the interaction with the game and will make it really integrate into the game nicely. So the next step is you want to take the board and you want to put it on the mount. You can see that there are two bosses here that will stick right through this board. Can go only only on one way. And this is where you're going to want to do take the little two screws that are included in the kit and screw it onto this board. Get the other one started. Seat the board on the boss. Hold it in place and let us tighten the screws down. Voila. Board is on the mount. So, this will then go into the game as an assembly. All right. Next step is to make sure your game is off and unplug from the wall. Don't want any stray currents or anything going on like that. Also, take the balls out of your game and then tip the playfield up into the position. You want to take the balls out, otherwise they'll fall out, could get lost, could damage some stuff. So, it's always good practice to take the balls out. So, this is a pro machine, so you're going to see it does not have the big building neck. So, if you're looking at the instructions that were provided with that, you'll see a lot of that. For us, we're going to be looking for this wire, this wire stand here. This is where we're going to mount this lolly board. All right. Now that you've located the wire stand here, what you're going to want to do is take or loosen up the screw. The new part is going to drop right in behind it and be held in place by one screw. This is what you have to do on a Pro. So, now that this is loose, you can take your lolly board assembly. Notice it's got big slots. You should be able to, if you've got it loose enough, should be able to drop it right in behind it. Looks like I got to do a little more loosening. and drop it all the way in. So, you'll see now that it's uh there. You can kind of tilt it a little bit. You know, it's notice it's right by the guard guide rail. So, you probably want to tip it inward a little bit so that the wires aren't in the way of doing that. Now, just tighten it back down there. The actual board's installed. Basically, pretty easy install. Now, we're going to do the wiring part. All right. The next step is you want to tie in this new bulb into one of the GI sockets here. Now, this one's going to be an easy one if you do not have any other mods in this machine. I already have one of the Stumbler pinball mods that ties into this exact this exact bulb. So, what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to splice the other wire so I can get the power to the lolly board for this mod. So, the first thing you still want to do is take out this socket right here. And that's a quarter inch 1/4in screw. All right. Comes right out. So, if you didn't already have a mod in here, you just pull out the original bulb and you screw in the new bulb for the wiring harness that's included. Now, I'm going to have to do a little more work. I'm going to need to take out some of this stuff and do some solder work to splice into these two. So, uh, I'll do that off camera, and then we'll come back when this is spliced. So, I'm going to show you what I'm doing right now. I already had a mod that was tied into that bulb. So, what I did is I took the new harness, cut the old one, and stripped them back. I have tied them together. Now, I'm going to solder those connections and put some heat shrink tubing on it. So, it's pretty easy. I've got a soldering station that I just bring over. All right, let that cool for a second. Then I'm going to slide the heat shrink tubing and then shrink them on there. So, I usually just do this with a lighter. I always tend to try to solder all my connections rather than do crimp style connectors cuz they tend to vibrate loose, not be as nearly as robust as a heat of a solder. All right. So, heat shrinking in place. So, next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to put the bulb back into the socket. tighten it back down and then hook up the wire to the actual mod or to the board. Thought I would zoom up on this one. So, this one you want to connect to jumper J1. This is the one that tight that's from the bulb. And that in this case will be this very top connector that is J1 on the board. So, make sure you look at the board and read that. So, now we've got the wires. What I'm going to do now is zip tie them into place so that they are out of the way. And then we'll move on to the second bit of wiring. So, the next part of this next piece of wiring is a little bit tricky. What you want to do is underneath the magnet, you'll see this switch. This switch is for the Newton ball. In there, connected to it are a white and yellow and black and white wire. You might need to cut some zip ties to expose those so you can get at them. uh because what we're going to do is we're going to be installing this clamp. So, also keep in mind that the wiring harness itself, let's get a better view of that. So, the wiring harness itself actually has this on it. So, you'll see there's this is the orientation. So, the clear side to you and you can see the yellow and white and the black and white go in order. So, pay attention to this. This is important. So now what you do is pop open the clear one. This is going to literally just clamp around and splice into that. So guide the wires. It's going to be a little finicky, so have some patience. So guide the wires into the grooves. The whole goal with this thing is to actually cut through the insulation and basically it splices into the wire taps into the ser into the signal. So again, I'm going to get this pliers, get them in the right spot, grab my pliers, and use that to actually do this. That should tie into the original switch. Basically, any switch, it'll register it and that will let the interaction happen when you hit the Newton ball. So squeeze it a few times. Make sure it has squeezed enough that the latch gets hooked on the end. Otherwise, it could come back or come open. So just be gentle. Patience is the key here. All right, that is the wire hooked up to the switch. So now the other end, this will actually fit in. Let's see. Do we have a view of that? So the second wire, I'll move it down. Zoom up a little bit here. So on the original lolli board, get the camera right. You'll see there were two white connections. We connected the other one to J1 here. And this other one goes in the bottom. So it basically plugs in just the same as the other one. Plugs right into the connector. Ed Boon. And now just do yourself a favor and zip tie everything up out of the way so it doesn't get caught in the guide on the playfield. All right, zip tie on. Cut off the excess. And we're actually done with the wiring underneath. That's the wiring. So now we should be able to turn the game on and check the mod. Okay. So now that you got the connectors in G J1 and J2, one last thing you would need to do is you actually need to hook up Godzilla to it. So there's this other lead. So LED strip and it says J3. J3 is actually on the very bottom. You can kind of see it in here. So you're going to want to plug that in. Ed Boon. Snapped in place. So, all right. So, now you've got J1, J2, and J3 hooked up. So, now zip tie up everything out of the way. And that way it'll keep it out of the rail system. We got all the wiring hooked up to the boards. We got everything routed, closed back up, balls in the game, powered, plugged back in. I'm booting the game right now. So, we should be able to test the functionality of our Godzilla mod. All right, Godzilla is on. He is lit. So, we'll get some good close-ups. So, you can see the spikes are all glowing. So, yeah, this is Godzilla, the atomic Godzilla mod. So, let's let's turn the game on. Let's play some and see how everything works. All right. So, you can see Godzilla is he's on his uh spikes are actually lit. You can kind of see them right here. So, there are two parts of this mod. One is the GI where they're just lit. The second one is when you actually hit the capture ball magnet. Now, they pulse. So, get you get this cool interaction with the game. Shoot the lamps. But yeah, cool, isn't it? Then they pulse when you hit that switch. It's pretty awesome looking, isn't it? All right, that's it. That completes the installation of our Mojo Mods Atomic Godzilla. He's got nice interaction with the game, and he's got the same look that the rest of the artwork does. So, he's green, he shows up better. Uh, I like the old mod, but I love this one. Thanks for watching this video. If you enjoyed it, please give us a like and also subscribe to the channel and click that notification bell. You'll be notified when new videos go up and when we go live playing pinball. We play live pinball on Twitch and on YouTube on Wednesday nights and Sunday nights. So definitely join in. You can ask us questions about the game, talk to us about everything general and pinball. Hope to see you then.
  • ?

    content_signal: Wild Dog Arcade produces detailed technical tutorial videos; generates engagement via live Twitch/YouTube streams and subscription model

    high · Gary produces step-by-step installation documentation; promotes live weekly streams on Twitch/YouTube; calls for likes/subscribes

  • ?

    product_strategy: Mojo Mods offers tiered product packages (standard and extended with premium/LE airball plastics) to capture different buyer segments

    medium · Gary mentions extended package includes airball plastics for LE/Premium machines; acknowledges Pro machine lacks building neck feature

  • ?

    gameplay_signal: Atomic Godzilla mod creates meaningful gameplay feedback via Newton ball switch triggering, enhancing player engagement with the capture magnet feature

    high · Gary demonstrates pulsing LED effect when magnet is triggered during play; describes it as cool interaction element