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P3 Technology Demo

Multimorphic·video·2h 2m·analyzed·Dec 30, 2022
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Analysis

claude-haiku-4-5-20251001 · $0.027

TL;DR

Multimorphic demonstrates P3 platform's modular game-swapping, software updates, and comprehensive diagnostic tools.

Summary

Jerry Stellenberg and TJ Weaver from Multimorphic conduct a comprehensive technical demonstration of the P3 modular pinball platform, covering software features (multi-game launcher, settings, diagnostics), hardware modularity, maintenance capabilities, and the ability to swap game modules at a fraction of the cost of traditional pinball machines. The demo showcases the P3's diagnostic tools, service menu accessibility via coin door, audio/coil customization, ball tracking via opto boards, and modular playfield swapping as core differentiators from traditional pinball.

Key Claims

  • Existing P3 owners can purchase new game modules like Weird Al (Feb 2024) for $3,000 vs. $8,000-$15,000 for traditional new pinball machines

    high confidence · Jerry Stellenberg explicitly states pricing in opening demo

  • Heist game module was previously available to P3 owners for $2,750

    high confidence · Jerry mentions historical precedent for module pricing

  • P3 supports Wi-Fi updates for software, apps, module drivers, and asset packs via Multimorphic.com

    high confidence · Demonstrated live in system manager menu with update available notification

  • P3 machines do not auto-delete old game versions; they remain accessible in 'earlier versions' submenu for comparison before deletion

    high confidence · Jerry explains software version management philosophy

  • P3 uses opto board light beam tracking above the screen to track ball position and determine if balls are in play

    high confidence · Jerry demonstrates ball tracking diagnostic showing intersecting lines

  • Flipper coil strength ranges from 0-40, with settings beyond 40 having no effect; max power above 40 risks breaking components

    high confidence · Jerry demonstrates coil strength settings in audio/gameplay menu; chat recommendation warns against setting to 40

  • P3 diagnostic mode allows users to test all LEDs, switches, coils, motors, servos, walls, scoops, and ramps without starting a game

    high confidence · Comprehensive demo of diagnostics application showing all test categories

  • P3 playfield modules include factory-calibrated diverter/ramp positions that may require minor tweaking based on machine incline and wall power

    high confidence · Jerry explains calibration process and need for adjustment in service mode

Notable Quotes

  • “The Multimorphic P3 is different from a standard traditional pinball machine. It's a multi-game system... you only have to pay for the platform itself once. The expensive part of a pinball machine you only pay for once. And then you can add game content for much less than buying new traditional games.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 8:18 — Core value proposition of P3 platform: modularity and cost-of-ownership advantage

  • “Existing Multimorphic P3 customers could purchase that game, have a brand new playing experience, for $3,000 compared to the $8,000, $9,000, $10,000, $11,000, $15,000 for other new pinball machines.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 8:37 — Explicit competitive pricing comparison for Weird Al module

  • “We don't automatically delete old versions of applications. When you update, it adds the new version to your system... if you go into this thing called earlier versions, it's like a submenu, and then you can see all the older versions.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 23:22 — Software design philosophy prioritizing user choice and rollback capability

  • “The first place we'll tell you to go is diagnostics. Go and test your switches. Go and test your coils. Go and test your wall scoops... If they're not, then we'll address it or we'll talk you through addressing it.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 32:12 — Support strategy: customer empowerment through diagnostic tools before escalation

  • “We have multiple buttons on ours, so we separate the buttons. And we strongly believe that it's better and that once you get used to it, you'll like it better. Most of our customers do.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 38:57 — Design philosophy on flipper button configuration; customer feedback indicates adoption of multi-button approach

Entities

Jerry StellenbergpersonTJ WeaverpersonMultimorphiccompanyP3 (Multimorphic P3)productWeird Al's Museum of Natural HilaritygameHeistgameMarco Specialtiescompany

Signals

  • ?

    business_signal: Multimorphic maintains active manufacturing and development operations: showroom with multiple functioning units, prototype museum, staged software updates available, indicating continued investment and customer base

    high · Showroom tour shows 6+ operational P3s, museum of prototypes from original to current iteration, multiple staged updates available via Wi-Fi

  • ?

    community_signal: Multimorphic conducting public technical education via live streaming and recording; inviting customer questions in real-time chat; responsive to feature requests (profile options, button configuration)

    high · Live stream format with chat monitoring, responsiveness to requests about step stool visibility, profile setup, flipper button configuration

  • ?

    community_signal: Multimorphic investing in customer education and self-service support through detailed wiki documentation, live tech demos, and comprehensive diagnostic tools

    high · Jerry references 'detailed list for all these settings, what they do' on support wiki; diagnostics designed as first-line troubleshooting; this live demo itself is education initiative

  • ?

    design_philosophy: P3 prioritizes function over aesthetics in service interfaces (diagnostics explicitly noted as 'not super pretty because we want function first'), contrasting with manufacturer focus on consumer-facing visual design

    medium · Jerry explicitly states: 'we don't spend a ton of time making this super pretty because we want function first and we can make it pretty later'

  • ?

    product_strategy: P3 explicitly differentiated from traditional pinball through modularity: single hardware platform, swappable game modules ($2,750-$3,000 each) vs. $8,000-$15,000 per new machine from competitors

Transcript

youtube_groq_whisper · $0.367

0:00
you Hello. All right. Tech demo for the P3. I don't know how many people are in chat. I'm not going to look at the numbers. We're going to record this. It doesn't matter if nobody's here. Hopefully lots of people are here and you brought your questions. Let me know in chat if our audio isn't coming through. I'm Jerry Stellenberg. This is TJ Weaver.
6:35
TJ, say more so they can tell if they can hear you. Can you guys hear me okay? Mic check, one, two, three.
6:42
You have a sound good in the show? All right. Can't hear TJ. One person can't hear TJ. Okay, can you guys hear me now?
6:53
Put your mic down a little bit. That's not important. The mouth near the mic isn't that important. Hey, we're tech people. We're not biologists. All right. Well, TK might have to talk louder. But all right. So this is the first time we're doing this. Really we want to introduce everyone to the system of the P3 so we can go into some details. We can talk about the technology. we can show some usage and servicing mix or routines and things you can get comfortable with. Because the P3, for those of you who don't know, I assume most people in chat probably have one or have one on order, but not everyone watching the video is going to have one. The P3 is different from a standard traditional pinball machine. It's a multi-game system. And what that means is this one machine looks like a standard pinball machine, but it's modular. You can change the games. You can change the physical playfield modules. You can change the artwork. You can change out the flipper assembly and the side targets. You can obviously change what's on the surface of the screen. And we can re-theme this thing into an entirely new experience. And the obvious advantage to that is you only have to pay for the platform itself once. the expensive part of a pinball machine you only pay for once.

  • “If your game isn't kicking balls out for some reason, it's probably either a coil's not working, or there's no ball in place to be kicked, or the switch that detects the ball isn't working.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 34:59 — Troubleshooting guidance demonstrating diagnostic methodology

  • “This is how we track the ball as it's moving around the screen. We can interact the ball with software, with graphics on the screen.”

    Jerry Stellenberg@ 33:21 — Core technical innovation: opto-based ball tracking enabling digital interaction

  • “Don't go to 40 because unless your wall power is very [stable], you'll probably be breaking stuff.”

    Chat recommendation/Jerry@ 22:09 — Community-sourced warning about hardware limits; indicates user experimentation and shared safety knowledge

    • Brad Albrightperson
    Scott Deniseperson
    Colin McAlpineperson

    high · Jerry states Weird Al module at $3,000 vs. $8,000-$15,000 for traditional new machines; emphasizes 'you only pay for expensive platform once'

  • ?

    product_strategy: P3 includes quality-of-life features post-release: asset pack installations (limited edition artwork), earlier version retention for comparison, digital level tool in system manager

    high · Demo shows Weird Al limited edition asset pack installation, version management system, digital level utility in system manager

  • ?

    technology_signal: Early-stage hardware iterations still in use (demo unit using experimental chip versions requiring different software), suggesting manufacturing scaling or quality consistency challenges

    medium · Jerry notes 'this is a bad machine demo unit this on because we're experimenting with different versions of the chip, which require different software'

  • ?

    technology_signal: P3 represents architectural shift: software-first design with comprehensive diagnostics, Wi-Fi updates, and customer-accessible service menus vs. traditional closed hardware models

    high · Multi-screen demo of system manager, diagnostics application, coin-door service access, Wi-Fi update capability from multimorphic.com

    • 8:22
    And then you can add game content for much less than buying new traditional games. So, for example, in February, late February this year, we launched the Weird Al game kit, Weird Al's Museum of Natural Hilarity.
    8:37
    And all existing P3 customers could purchase that game, have a brand new playing experience, for $3,000. compared to the $8,000, $9,000, $10,000, $11,000, $15,000 for other new pinball machines. Prior to that, we launched Heist in 2020. Existing P3 owners could purchase Heist for $2750. So we can add game content. You guys can add game content for a fraction of the price of traditional machines.
    9:07
    That's great for building a library, but in order to support that, we had to design a lot of new stuff to support the modularity, to do all the things required to allow you to swap games. And that's what we want to get into today, to get you all familiar with that process. We're standing here in the Multimorphic showroom. I'm going to switch scenes real quick to show you some other stuff. Forgive me as I awkwardly change cameras. Open the lens cover. This is our showroom. We are looking here at this machine right here. To the left of it, we have a bunch of other P3s that are functionally very similar or the exact same. The Heist machine you're looking at now is the exact same machine with speaker panel and new wall scoop assembling, all that. And the ones to the left of it are older model P3s that can still play all of the new games. And we have a bunch set up. You can even see in the background way over there a little museum. The very left is the original machine and then the iterated prototypes and eventually we wound up recently at this model.
    10:27
    Alright, so now I will switch back. We'll jump into the machine and show you some things. and hopefully answer some questions if we pay enough attention to chat.
    10:45
    Steven, a video producer, says, stop saying puff, puff, puff, puff, puff, puff, puff. All right. Apologize for any audio quality mishaps. We're going to get into the machine, and we'll try, like I said, to pay attention to chat to see questions. And if we don't see them, just keep typing the same thing over again. And then eventually, hopefully one of us sees it and will either answer it or will ignore it or will tell you we're not going to answer it for whatever reasons those are. All right. So a quick software demonstration of the machine because it's different. I'll start from a machine off state.
    11:28
    Turn it on so you can see the entire experience. We'll talk usage. I'll show you how to load a game or to start a game. I'll show you some of the maintenance capabilities, the updating capabilities, and then we'll get into some hardware and mechanical stuff.
    11:55
    All right, so we power up the machine, and it lands us in this launcher state. this is like a computer in the sense that you can select an application to run. Because it's multi-game capable, the software for every game is already installed on here.
    12:15
    We have lots of games. We have full game kits. We have mini-games. We also have a diagnostics program, and we have a system manager. and system manager is where we, funny enough, manage the system.
    12:35
    So I scrolled using the flipper buttons, the red buttons on the side of the cabinet. I entered system manager with the launch button, and inside system manager, I don't know how well this is showing up on the camera. I can read it. TJ can read it. Okay. All right. So we can install or update software, we can manage software, or we can edit network settings. The reason we would edit network settings is so we get on our Wi-Fi, and you can see the Wi-Fi signal here is pretty strong, so we're in good shape. The P3 supports Wi-Fi updates, and I believe we have one or two ready, so I can install from multimorphic.com.
    13:15
    It tells me I have apps, module drivers, and asset packs, all with at least one update available. Just to show a quick demo, I'll show you the asset pack. This is the Weird Al limited edition stuff. For those of you who purchased the limited edition package, you can install this LE asset pack, which gives you access to the limited edition versions of the digital artwork.
    13:38
    I'm just going to say install. It asks me to confirm its download. It downloads it from the Multimorphic website. installs it and now it's installed so now if I drop back into manage installed software manage asset packs you now see the weird owl le asset pack is installed and I can show you later I can show you right now actually how to access that le package for those of you who have it we got a question that somebody wants to see the step stool we used to swap games out. Really? You think you got us? You think you got us? It's right here.
    14:28
    A nice Marco specialty stool. It's a good question, though, because the side of the cabinet is pretty high. Getting to the upper playfield modules, which you'll see TJ do later, requires you to get over the side of that cabinet. it, we encourage you to use a stool if you need to. Some people are taller and can lift it themselves. Some people need a little bit of height help. And just jump on a stool. Just make sure it's a sturdy stool. We don't want anyone tripping and falling off the stool while they're holding a 30-pound play field. That wouldn't be good. All right. So let's see. I was going to show you, but we don't have the back box connected. So I'll jump into Weird Al. Takes a second to load up. I hit the launch button again with the Weird Al app selected. It's loading up the software. It's a very big game. So it takes a few seconds to load. And it actually loaded the LE image by default. But I can show you that if I go to settings and we'll walk through this setting stuff in a bit. but if I go to settings, general, translate images, I can show the standard edition, which changes the base screen to the standard blue artwork, or now I can re-enable the limited edition version because we installed the limited edition artwork.
    16:04
    The logo and no logo versions of these are for the back box image, so you can choose to see it with a logo or without a logo, because some people have a speaker panel with a logo and a topper with a logo, so you can choose to translate without a logo.
    16:17
    And we'll do it no logo. So everything changes back orange. Okay, now let's talk about these settings a little bit. The P3, because it's a multi-game system, has different settings for every application. The way you access the settings is by opening the coin door. When you open the coin door, you have access to the volume display. You can hold down the start button if you want to exit the application, or you can hit the launch button to enter the service menu. Then I close the coin door to get rid of the volume.
    16:57
    Traditional games have buttons inside the coin door that let you manipulate things. We don't see a need for those because you have to open the coin door anyway. We use the coin door as the switch that enables service mode. So you open up the coin door hit launch Close the coin door and now we can use the flipper buttons to navigate the menu The launch button goes deeper the start button backs out So the right side of the cabinet the launch button is basically your enter and the left side of the cabinet your start button is basically your exit Inside the settings we have access to lots of different things. We've got gameplay settings where we can change things in all the modes. Dare to be stupid. Deration of ball save timer.
    17:41
    Lots of different things. General things. How many pops required for a shirt award. All the various settings we programmed into the game. And there's also locations care about making money. So you can go and change free play to yes or no. If you go to no, now it requires credits to play it. You see credits just popped up on the screen. And you can change all the settings for how much money it takes, how many credits are required to play a game.
    18:13
    I'll leave that on free play. Jerry, how do you adjust the audio? How do you adjust the audio? Specifically the subwoofer. Okay, so in settings, I just backed out of them. I'll go back in. In settings, open up the coin door. While the coin door is open, you have access to the volume. So I can use the flipper buttons right now, the red buttons, to go up.
    18:34
    And maybe my mic is picking up that really loud click now. And I can go back down. The Weird Al's tuned a little high, so a setting of two is reasonable for a small room. And also, with the Coinder open again, I hit the launch button to get into settings.
    18:53
    Go to audio. And down here we have access to some of the parts of the mixer, the audio mixer. That's the software. And here we have the base gain, it's set for 1. If we want to lower the base, the thump we get from the sound effects and music, we can lower that. And we can go all the way down to 0 if you want to turn off the entire low frequency channel. I'm going to leave it where it was for now. You can increase it so you can amplify it. We'll put it back to 0. There's a setting here, a lot of people get the P3 and we turn this on by default. There's a really cool back splash animation that runs on the back box and it's got a thunderous boom that comes along with it. A lot of people get surprised by it the first time. You can turn that off if you want. We have it off here. That's Attractive Video Sounds is off. It can be on or off. I'm editing these by using the flipper buttons to get to them, hitting the launch button to go into edit mode, flipper buttons again to change the value, and launch button again to save it. You can enable or disable Bluetooth headphones. I'll go into that in a second. And you can also change the background music volume relative to the sound effects. So if for instance, if the music is too loud relative to the voice callouts and things, you can lower it. If you want the music to overpower everything else, you can raise it. And by changing the background music and the bass along with your main volume setting, You can pretty much get pretty fine-grained control over all the audio. But note that the audio settings for this game are only for this game. If I go into a different application, it's got its own set of audio settings, different volumes stored. So if I have this one set for 2 or 10, the other one might be set for 40 or 50, because the developer of that other game might have balanced his audio differently. Another setting that everyone's asking about these days that's also game specific is the strength of coils and specifically the flipper coils. So in this game, I think our defaults are 24 for all of the flipper coils, or at least the lower flippers.
    21:15
    If you want to make your flipper stronger, just increase that. You can go all the way up to 40. Beyond 40 has no impact on the strength because the flipper is all the way up by the time it gets to 40.
    21:28
    I'm going to cancel. So I'm in edit mode. I'm changing the value of that. I don't want to save it. So I'm going to hit the start button, which is the exit or cancel button.
    21:36
    So now it's back to 24 and I'm navigating through the menus again. We can control the left flipper, the right flipper, the upper right flipper, which is the side target flipper, the upper left flipper, which is this one, and the mezzanine flipper, which is up top on the mezzanine. That one doesn't have to flip the ball very far, so we use a much lower strength, 16, 14, something around that is pretty good.
    22:01
    All right, any more questions about settings and service mode? We've got a recommendation not to go to 40. Don't go to 40 because unless your wall power is very low, you'll probably be breaking stuff.
    22:19
    I'm exiting the application. I'm doing that by opening the coin door, holding the start button for a while.
    22:26
    Now back into other applications. It's telling me in launcher, because I'm connected to Wi-Fi, that this machine does not have the latest version of the software installed. It does that through the start. It had a little pop-up display that said update available in System Manager. So when you power up your machine, as soon as it connects to the Internet, it does a search. If you're connected to the Internet, you don't have to be. It does a search for newer versions of all the software, and it'll tag the ones that have updates with a star, update available in System Manager. It doesn't automatically update because you might not want to. The other key thing to remember about the P3 and software updates is we don't automatically delete old versions of applications.
    23:13
    When you update, it adds the new version to your system. It won't appear in the main version of the carousel. You'll only ever see one copy there, but if you go into this thing called earlier versions, it's like a submenu, and then you can see all the older versions. And you'd use that if you want to try out the differences between a new version and an old version before you choose to delete the old version. You delete the old versions in System Manager.
    23:41
    All right. Last bit of software I want to get into before we start talking screwdrivers and removing play fields and all of the mechanical stuff is diagnostics. This is basically the test menu you might find in other games, but we have a full diagnostic application. And no matter which play field you have installed, it tells you in this corner which play field we have installed, the Weird Al Museum of Natural Hilarity one. If you go into play field module in diagnostics, it shows you whatever tests are programmed for that play field. So in here, and obviously we don't spend a ton of time making this super pretty because we want function first and we can go and make it pretty later. We can do, what's visible? You can, let's do the right ramp. The right ramp is up, now it's down. Now it's up, now it's down. So you can go into this diagnostics and test out all of your LEDs, all of your magnets, all of your motors, all of your servos. spiral down.
    24:55
    Now what's up? I don't know if you can see it moving. It's back here. You can do the camera left and right. That'll show up really well. Good idea. Camera, pan, left, center,
    25:07
    left, center, right. And in the Weird Al game specifically, we have three settings. One for the left position, which is where it releases the balls. One for the center position, which is where balls can load into the back of it and one for the right position which just we use for motion effects and things if any of these things aren't set up well if the ramp or the camera rotation or the spiral ramp aren't going up or down to the right position you can go into the settings and change those positions and you do that like every other setting open a coin door hit launch go into and in this playfield they're called diverters and there's a long list of them and we set these for you before you get your game they're stored on the playfield module themselves so we set the positions of your ramps and camera and everything at the factory we fully calibrate it and when you get it at your house it should be set very close if not to perfect settings they can vary a little bit based on the incline of your machine or the power coming out of your walls slightly more power will result in slightly different positions on motors so you might need to tweak some of these you do that by going to the setting menu it's a good example camera sweep servo left position is set to 245 camera sweep right position set to 110 and the center position is 190 if your camera when it's receiving a ball isn't perfectly centered to receive the ball. If the ball gets stuck on the back of it, you can go and change the position.
    26:47
    And I'll add that on our website, there's a detailed list for all of these settings, what they do, how the numbers change, if you make a number go higher or lower, which way it changes the diverter, in, out, up, down, left, right. All that is highly detailed on our support wiki. And one other thing that we use a lot here that I don't know if most people know you can do is in the diagnostic screen, you can kick balls out and you can enable your flippers so you can actively test the features you're testing. So, for instance, if I want to put myself on the spot, which I shouldn't do, but I'm going to do it, I'm going to put the spiral ramp up.
    27:28
    I'm going to enable flippers. And now when I hit the flipper buttons, they'll activate. The red ones are controlling the lowers. The white ones are controlling the uppers.
    27:41
    And I'm going to hit the launch button with launch left selected. It's going to launch a ball out, and I'm going to try to hit the spiral ramp.
    27:52
    And I failed. So I'll just let it drain, and I'll do it again. that one I hit the target no one told me not to do this on camera live there we go so a good shot to the spiral it went to the anemone and I can flip around up there try the loops out whatever but if you're trying to dial in the strength of your upper flipper and the height setting of the mezzanine, or I'm sorry, of the hamster ramp, spiral ramp, you can do that right here without going back into the application, starting a game, launching a ball out, dealing with drains and all that stuff.
    28:41
    Any questions about diagnostics of playfields? So far, nothing quite about diagnostics here. We've got quite a few requests about profiles. Okay, we'll get into profiles. Let me finish going through some diagnostic stuff.
    28:58
    Switches, the standard switch test. You go into there, you get a grid of all your switches. Everything you hit should show you a history in the center of the screen. You can go to all your targets.
    29:09
    You make sure everything's working. Literally every switch that software can recognize is available to test, including things like I'm hitting, it says money zero because I'm manually pulling the coin slot switch. the tilt, there's a tilt bob in the cabinet you can do all those things, you can test the buttons right flipper, left flipper, all that stuff switches you can manually test all the coils for instance the left flipper main and it just pulses all these things, right flipper right sling left sling, excuse me you can even go into the VUKs though you need to be careful because certain playfields, if you fire the wrong VUK up, it'll kick a ball directly up into the bottom of the playfield. Maybe. We do have some software that detects which playfield you have installed. So if I try to hit VUK, what's safe on this one? Three? One and seven are safe on Weird Al. If you try to launch one that's not available, you should receive a warning. I'm going to try to do VUK three, which if it activated, it would kick a ball straight up into the bottom of that playfield. field and probably damage a bunch of stuff. And it actually won't let me. Cannot currently test this coil. I can keep hitting the launch button, and it doesn do anything But if I go to VUK1 it kick balls out For people with older model P3s that have coil walls and scoops you can activate those here as well, so you can make sure those work. You can also go into the playfield-specific stuff, so the bottom two rows here are weird-owl coils, and I'm activating the pop bumper. There's not a whole lot to see here visually, but I don't know if you can hear the pops popping and drop target. So you can pop that back up and test all those features. LEDs, you can scroll through and manually activate all the LEDs to make sure they all have red, blue, and green.
    31:14
    If they don't, then maybe a cable's loose or something else is going on that needs to be addressed. A common problem that TJ will get into fixing in a little bit is the side targets. so you can go and see if all four side targets on each side are showing red, blue, and green.
    31:32
    And on this machine, they appear to be. Actually, they don't. The left side is disconnected, which we probably did on purpose to demo fixing it.
    31:43
    All right. Walls and scoops, you can go in and control them individually. Wall 3 is selected. I hit enter, and wall 3 pops up. You can scroll back around. Scoop 2. Scoop 2 is now up. And wall 3 is now up. And you can test every single one of these things and make sure they're properly going up and down.
    32:05
    And I guess the main point is that almost every issue you're going to email us with, tech support, or you're going to ask on forums, the first place we'll tell you to go is diagnostics. Go and test your switches. Go and test your coils. Go and test your wall scoops. go into the playfield module test and activate the diverters or the ramp servos to make sure the ramps are going up and down. If they're not, then we'll address it or we'll talk you through addressing it. But diagnostics is the place to go to test all this stuff. Two more options that we haven't talked about. One is ball tracking. Most of you probably already know this, but the P3's screen has opto boards above it, mounted to both sides that span the distance of the entire surface of the screen, and we shine light back and forth across the playfield. When the ball breaks beams of light, software knows about it. So as the ball is rolling around the playfield, you can see different beams of light being broken, which is being represented by lines turning on in this display. And you can see here there's a set of intersections right where my fingers are. Just like over here, the intersections move with my finger. So this is how we track the ball as it's moving around the screen. We can interact the ball with software, with graphics on the screen. We also use the ball tracking to tell software that a ball is in play. So if the ball's stuck somewhere and none of these lines are turning on and off, then software will realize, oh crap, there's a ball somewhere. It's not on the surface of the screen. It's not in play. Let me run the ball search. If you have a ball stuck somewhere and it's not running ball search, go into this test and see if some of these lines are spuriously turning on and off. Because if they are, then ball search won't run. And there's probably a simple solution. If there's a low hanging cable under one of the side target assemblies or something, or the flipper assembly has a low hanging cable, it might be blocking light, and it's a real easy fix.
    34:14
    Lastly, under playfield. This is a representation of the ball trough underneath the playing surface. It's at the back of the playfield, kind of halfway through the upper playfield module. All these balls that you see on the screen, there's physical versions of those balls under the playfield right now. so you can see actively what's happening under your play field by looking at this screen.
    34:39
    And I can select one of these coils, like VUK1. I can select it, I can enter, I can hit launch, and it'll kick out a ball, and you'll see all the balls adjusted.
    34:51
    So one ball got kicked up, another ball got staged up into the trough, and everything shifted down, and now the trough is full again. If your game isn't kicking balls out for some reason, it's probably either a coil's not working, or there's no ball in place to be kicked, or the switch that detects the ball isn't working. And you can test out all those things pretty easily by looking at this screen.
    35:19
    The only key thing to note in this screen is if I hit the launch button on VUK1, it'll only try to kick a ball if it thinks there's a ball there. If that space is empty, if there's no ball there, it won't even try to kick it. But I can go back into the coil test, select VUK1, and activate it, and it doesn't care if a ball's there or not. So in the coil test, it'll activate the coil regardless. You can test the coil. And here, you're more testing the switch and the eject, and that all the other trough positions fill in properly. All right. That's diagnostics. Any questions there before I go back to the app and talk about profiles and things? We've got a couple questions about when swapping play fields and putting all the balls in, sometimes they don't auto-stage when the machine turns back on. Okay. TJ can tell you the process of taking the play field out, and we'll walk through staging the balls. The balls should all stage at all times. There's a couple of brackets that TJ can point out, we'll show you with the camera in a second, that need to be perfectly mated and if they're not, if one's slightly higher than the other, then the ball can get stuck on that bracket and then they won't stage and sometimes you have to go and manually fire a coil in diagnostics to clear that. With a tweak to the position of those brackets, it should be smooth and it should always stage all the balls.
    36:51
    Anything else? A couple of questions about the digital level and the machine. They've heard about this magical digital level, and they can't find it. You would think that would be in diagnostics, and ultimately it should be in diagnostics.
    37:10
    But in the early days of P3 development, we put it in System Manager. and it is there in system manager. So down here in the apron area, unfortunately this is a bad machine to demo this on because we're experimenting with different versions of the chip, which require different software. But you see the digital displays here. There's a horizontal one and a vertical one. On your machines, it should actively be adjusting those levels. If your machine is tilted one direction versus the other, These numbers will adjust. I don't know if you can see that. Is that low enough on the camera? Yeah, you can barely catch it. You're catching a little bit of reflection on the left flipper. I can't see my hand. Yeah, you can. It sits right. Okay, so it's way down here below the flippers. It's hard to see on camera.
    38:11
    Alright. I'm going to go back into the game app and talk through our feature menu. We had one request specifically if you can set a profile up with one flipper. One flipper? All flippers, one button. I refuse to set my game ever to one button for all machines.
    38:35
    Not really. I'll happily do it for you. I don't recommend playing that way just because the playing experience is intended to use separate buttons. I know a lot of people are used to using one button to control multiple flippers on other games. I think that's because manufacturers were saving cost back in the day, saving complexity, and didn't want to set up two physical buttons on their cabinet. We have multiple buttons on ours, so we separate the buttons. And we strongly believe that it's better and that once you get used to it, you'll like it better. Most of our customers do. But the option is there, so you can set them to the same button. All right. So, if I hit the flipper button, I guess this app does not have the legend. All right. So, all of our games have what we call a feature menu. Some of our games have a display on the front in a track mode that shows you a representation of the buttons and explains what each button does. We need to get that enabled for the Weird Al app, too. But if I hold down the right flipper button and hit start, it brings up a menu.
    39:45
    So all I did was hold down a flipper button. Actually, it can be left or right. And hold it down, hit the start button, then release both. It brings up this feature menu.
    39:55
    Some of these options in the feature menu are enableable and disableable. So you can go into settings and turn some of these off so they're not available. This is what's on, I think these are the defaults. You can choose to start a game with a profile. You can manage profiles. You can set a default profile. You can also connect Bluetooth speakers. So if you have, if you have the Bluetooth subsystem enabled, you have the Bluetooth wireless USB dongle installed in your machine, you should be able to connect Bluetooth speakers. I know some speakers don't connect to all dongles, so there's a little bit of experimentation there. I think every speaker that we've tested, every set of headphones, has worked with the recommended dongle. You can see a link to it in our support site.
    40:42
    All right. Start a game with a profile. Let me manage profiles. I got a profile for me, G, and a profile for test. Let me, let's do this. Let's change test.
    40:58
    Go into edit profile. It brings up the settings menu. Go to max. switches one-handed play is off. That's an interesting feature. You can control both sets of flippers or all the flippers on one side of the cabinet if you're handicapped or if you want to have a one-handed tournament or if you want to talk on the phone with one hand and play pinball with the other you can do that. We're worried right now about use red buttons for all lower playfield Flippers. We'll set that to on. And I'll go back into the feature menu, manage profiles for my profile, G, and I'll edit that and I'll make sure that I use red buttons for all flippers is no, of course, because I hate it. So that's going to stay no forever unless I'm demoing something. Now theoretically if I start a two-player game and have one player using the G profile and one player using the test profile the settings will be different so let's make sure that happens before I do that I'm going to go into this feature menu one more time let's change the default profile to G so what that means is now I don't have to go into this feature menu every time I want to start a game with my profile I can simply hit the start button, and it says it's my profile, because that's the default. If I change the default back to none, then every time it loads the game up, it won't load a profile, and I'll manually have to do it myself.
    42:47
    I don't know if you can hear Weird Al insulting me and taunting me right now. While you're waiting to launch, it says launch ball, I can go back into the feature menu. You can do this up until the point where you launch the ball.
    43:01
    And it allows me to add another player with a profile, which I'll do. So I'll add the test profile. Player added. Now there's two scores in my score area down in the apron.
    43:14
    One that says G and one that says test. just to demonstrate another feature we can remove players from the game you can do that in the feature menu by going down to remove player 2 or if you're not in that menu you can literally hold for 2 seconds to remove a player so I'll hold the start button for 2 seconds player removed the test player is now out of the game and it's back to a one player game You can do this only up until the point where that player launches a ball. If he hasn't yet launched a ball and it's ball one, you can remove him from the game.
    43:55
    But for this demo, I'll add him back. Test. We've now got two players. I'm hitting the red buttons. And now the white buttons.
    44:08
    And the button control is fully separated for me. Start. Missed the skill shot I'm going to hold on the ball And just let it time out so we can progress to the other player The ball save is counting down here There's a 2 or 3 second grace period So I'll wait a few more seconds And then drain the ball
    44:39
    Player 2 test Launch the ball and hopefully now when I hit these red flipper buttons, you'll see both sets of flippers activate. I'm going to hit the right side and both flippers activated. I'm not touching the white button at all right now. So we've got two players in the game and each of those players has separate button configurations and you can see them controlling the flippers. I want to show you one more thing.
    45:08
    Let's go back. We lost the ball. So, let's see. I tried to hit the other button. It didn't work. I'm going to cancel out of this. Let the ball drain.
    45:30
    And show you one more thing about the feature menu. Okay, we're back to player one. This is now ball two. Once again, I'll go into the feature menu, which I can only do while launch is pending or in attract mode.
    45:53
    And my options now are abort the game, connect Bluetooth speakers, or save or restore state. Save and restoring state is a way for you to grab a snapshot of your current progress in the game and save it. so that later, another day or later in the day or whenever you want, you can go back and resume the game. But it doesn't resume the ball number. It starts the game over at whatever, or it resumes the game from the save point at whatever point you restore it. So, for instance, if I save the game now,
    46:31
    save the game, I have a bunch of save points already that we use for testing, running with scissors, you make me. and new name. So I can go in there and enter a new name, say AAA, and now I can play a game, I can play a ball, I can start a new game, and at any point, I can go back to the feature menu, save and restore, and I can restore AAA.
    47:02
    So now I'm in the same state I was a second ago. For demonstration purposes, I can load a different restored state. Let me restore running with scissors, which is the wizard mode on this game. So now, it says play one launch ball. I'm still at ball two, and it shows that this shot, the ticket counter, is lit to start the finale, which is running with scissors.
    47:26
    So you can see I just skipped the entire gameplay to get to the final mode, because today I wanted to test it, or because today I didn't want to play through each song. I wanted to just play the final mode, or whatever.
    47:38
    once again, I can restore state and go back to AAA, and now I'm at the state I was. Or I should be. There's a bug. That didn't work.
    47:48
    So you should be able to load the state again, the original state, and go back to it. All right. Now I'm going to abort the game, and now I'm back in the track mode. Also, when you're saving state, you have to save before you plunge your last ball. It's a good point. Before you launch your last ball. So you can't play balls one, two, and three, get all the way through ball three, and say, oh, I did really well, I want to save my state. You can't because your game's over. So you have to save your state at the beginning of ball three and hope you did well enough on ball one and two to justify that.
    48:25
    All right, any more questions about software, software features, using the game, launching applications, changing settings, any of that stuff? The save state should persist through reboots. It may not have saved properly when you first did your first save, but all these save states should persist through reboots. Yes, the states are stored on the solid state hard drive on the machine, just like your profile names. And in fact, if you create a profile name on one game and then go into an entirely different game application or different Playfield module software, you should have access to the same profile, and you can continue saving or restoring states for that game in that software. You don't have to continue entering your name for each game application. And the profiles are nice, too, because you can set one profile to be super challenging. You can set one profile to be relatively easy. And then so you, the good pinball player, can play against the kiddos or someone else who's not nearly as talented at pinball and play competitively. Yes, it's a very cool way to handicap certain players. You can even do team play. One more option. I'll demo that real quick. Team play on the P3 is a little more comprehensive than you'll see in other games, because you can choose to play one against one, two against two, three against one. You can all play cooperatively together with a four-player game. And you do that by, once again, starting a game with a profile G.
    49:56
    I want to add a player with a profile, so I'll add another person under my profile G. another one under my profile, G, and now we'll add another one as test.
    50:13
    So now, I don't know if you can see, but in my apron area, I've got four players. Three of them are on Team G. One of them is on Team Test. And I'll go back into the feature menu, hit this option, which is now available, called Team Game Enable. There's now Team Game text indicating that I have a team game active. And if I play a little bit...
    50:48
    ...drain the ball... ...now you'll see, as... As the scoreboard transitions between names and scores, you see that players 1, 2, and 3 all have 46,222 points because they're all playing together, they're all making progress together. And player 4 is not progressing because he's on a separate team.
    51:18
    Okay. Pinball Eddie asks, you can play co-op on any game module by having everyone select the same profile?
    51:29
    The default for the software framework is to allow co-op and team play on every game. The developer of the game may choose to disable it, but all of our multi-player, all of Multimorphics multiplayer games do support co-op. You can play co-op games in Lexi Lightspeed, Cosmic Kart Racing, whatever you want. That would be career mode in Cosmic Kart Racing, Heist, etc. We developed this back in 2015 when we developed the profile system, enabling team play in co-op mode. Once you have profiles in place, it was super easy to do. We've actually had it since we started shipping P3s. That's a good way to play a 12-ball game. If you really want to get to the end of a game, you can't just save and restore states. That's probably the easiest. But you can also set up a multiplayer co-op game each with however many balls you want. And oh, by the way, I'll show you that too. You can change, I think it's in general settings, balls per game can be three. Or you can change it up to ten balls per game if you want. You can change it down to one, three. There's max players per game, which this actually lets you go up to nine players per game. I don't know what it's going to do to the scoreboard in that case. You can set it to one. You can restrict the number of players that can play. and you can do other things like allow player removal. You can disable that feature. There's a thing called here called Detect Cheaters, which is a feature that we haven't fully explored that it actually knows if you flip the ball to activate the certain things on the play field, or if you did it with your finger. And if you did it with your finger, it can decide to let you not progress through the game or disable the high score table or not allow you to get to wizard mode or whatever. We haven't really done a lot with that feature yet, but it's possible.
    53:25
    And also of note, settings info, this info screen. If we ever ask you to tell us what version you're running because you put in a support case or have a request, we'll probably ask you to look at this settings screen, this info screen, which tells you the application version, your hardware version, the machine ID, and some other things. It's also where you set your logging level. So if you ever come across a big strange bug and ask us for help and we're like, we've never seen that, please send us a log, we'll probably ask you to set your logging level to all. I think the default is exception, but that doesn't give us too much information. We'll ask you to set it to all and play a game, try to make the problem happen again, and then you can send that to us through System Manager and do all that through Wi-Fi. And it's important to know this info screen is only showing the information for the loaded application. So that is only the info for this particular Weird Al game and the Weird Al module driver. Yes. If I went to – I'll exit this right now. I know some of you want to see. Can you go into System Manager and show us that and show us how to send us a log? Sure. I sure can.
    54:39
    So I have logging all enabled in Weird Al app. I will go to System Manager. Hopefully you're not having to send us logs very often. Bugs should be pretty rare or things that we understand already. But if you do come across something and people still do occasionally, then feel free to send it to us. I'm going to go to Manage Installed Software, Manage Applications. There's apps, there's asset packs that you saw me install. There's also the modules for the module drivers, which is a hardware-specific set of driver software.
    55:14
    I'll go to the Weird Al app. You can see all the different versions of everything I have installed because I haven't deleted the old versions.
    55:22
    It doesn't really matter because we have plenty of hard drive space available. But now I'll select Weird Al's Museum of Natural Hilarity. I can uninstall it, reset to factory default, manage logs, or I can delete, or I can even save the settings and statistics off to a USB drive, which I don't think anyone's ever done outside of the company. But I'll select this option for manage logs.
    55:48
    I can copy it to USB. I can send it to Multimorphic. There's a third option here for developers if you've enabled them, which obviously we do here. We can copy them to a computer on our local network. But I'll click send log to Multimorphic, confirm. It sent it and it put a reference number on here. It says add reference 4724 to your support ticket. So now our support team can go out and find that log and directly relate it to your machine. And hopefully you've put in a support case and added that number so we know exactly what you're describing. And we can see what log notes relate back to what it is you're describing. When you do send a log, we ask that you give us as much detail as you can. I was in ball three, I was playing for two minutes, and then this weird thing happened. That way we can go back into the log, we can find the start of ball three, we can search the timestamps up two minutes or around two minutes, I'm sure you don't know exactly, and we can look for the sequence of events that led to the issue that you're seeing. Again, hopefully that's rare. Not many people are having to send logs anymore for fairly mature apps, but it does still happen.
    57:02
    Of note To reinforce TJ's point I'm gonna go into a different application Let's go into rocks Not gonna play it, but I'm gonna go into the settings and
    57:17
    Show you that the volume settings and other things if I open up the coin door The volume in this game is set to 44 the volume in weird out was set to I think 2 so the volume as well as things like the flipper strengths, coils, flipper strengths, are all stored per application. In the game, like rocks, where it brings up all of the walls and scoops, and I'm only flipping the ball partially up the play field, I might want to limit my flipper strength, because I don't need full power to get up ramps. I just need a, if I want to control the ball easier, I'll lower the flipper strength, because it's just going in this area. There are some settings in here that are not per app. Like the trough settings, this is going to get confusing a little bit, but the trough settings has strength settings for each of the VUKs that pop the ball up. And these are stored per playfield module. So every app will see the same values that you stored for the trough settings. Because the trough has tubes in certain positions and features above them. And no matter which piece of software you're using, the ball still launches up the exact same way through the exact same mix. So those settings are per module. And then there are some settings that are global for the whole machine, but we don't need to get into any of those right now.
    58:48
    Let me start up Barnyard. Our display is dark for a few seconds. It takes about 20 seconds to clearly see the display. Is that a feature of the game? The barnyard question with the dark display, I don't 100% know offhand. There is a feature in barnyard where the time of the game is controlled by,
    59:07
    it's a timer, but graphically it's shown by a sun rising. The sun, so the game starts kind of dim. The sun rotates into the highest position in the sky. At that point, your gameplay screen is as bright as it will ever be, and then slowly the earth rotates, the sun sets, and the game gets darker again. I don't know if you're talking about that, if you're talking about a physical problem. That's what I believe they're talking about. Yeah, the game starts early, early morning before dawn, basically. There you go. It's all thematic.
    59:40
    Barnyard has no audio. Go into your volume and raise it. it might be set to default at 10 or 20, and Barnyard, I think, is tuned to need to be very high, 50 or 60. And that's because every game developer or every audio developer levels their audio at whatever reference they want. And some make it loud at very low volume numbers, and others make it loud at higher volume numbers. So it could be very app-specific. But if your audio works in other games, then it will work in Barnyard. You just need to tune the settings. All right. Okay, we're about an hour in. An hour in on software and usage. Let's get into some of the physical stuff, and I'll kind of pass it over to TJ. I'll probably do a lot of the narration. But what we're going to start with is showing you how to swap in and out a few different things, the flippers, maybe the monitor, maybe get access to fix that side target assembly. We'll show swapping play fields, and we'll talk through some tips and tricks to make things easier. And hopefully we'll kind of demystify this system so that you're more comfortable working on it. Yeah, this will probably be a little bit more handy cam. Yes, so I will grab a camera. I might turn off. I'll leave the overhead on for now, but at some point I have another scene, which is just the carry camera and we see how we can get you the best of you So let switch over to that now I going to turn the machine off because all hardware stuff is done with power off
    61:26
    All right. Let's see. Triple camera. Let's start with that. And I will try to show you what's going on. Does that look okay for everybody? You can see me moving this around and you can see the main playfield. This will change as TJ lifts the playfield into service position. It will become less visible through that camera, so we'll switch to the single camera. Okay. So, in order to get the playfield, the chassis, into our service position, we're going to lift underneath the front apron, just basically the base of the flipper assembly. You're going to lift straight up, and then it's going to pull outwards a little bit, and then set down into a small detent. If it's your first time doing this, it's much heavier than what you're expecting on a traditional game, but once you've done it a whole bunch of times, it becomes quite easy, and you go to lift a traditional machine, and it'll fly up in the air. So it's going to be lifting straight up. Most people use two hands. TJ's crazy strong and used to doing this, but two hands can easily fit underneath this apron area. And there's a metal support bracket there, so it's basically a solid lifting point.
    62:41
    But it'll naturally want to get on the side so we can see this a little easier. So it'll pull out, and then at this point it'll catch a detent, and then it'll just kind of hit it down, and this front cross brace will sit on our lock bar receiver. This puts the chassis into what we know as the service position. From here, we can access most of the features on the machine itself, such as if you want to gain access to the flippers. We have our front door. On the top of the front door, there's two little buttons that you can depress.
    63:15
    Push those down, and the whole door pivots downwards. From in here, we have access to our flipper assembly, the playfield plastic that the ball actually rolls on, and the playfield display. In order to pull the flippers out, I'm going to disconnect this big 15-pin connector, and these can be stubborn. And then the flipper assembly literally just slides right out. So if you wanted to, if you needed to clean it, if you need to check out the mechs on the back, you can take this whole assembly over to your workbench. You don't have to slave over working on the top side and bottom side of the machine at the machine's location. If you were in that ball tracking test and you discovered that some of the lines far down on the play field were twitching, it might be because one of these cables is hanging too low. So you can pull your whole assembly out and re-zit tie these cables into secure positions. The other thing you can do, I'll have TJ put that back in for a second, is if you have ball tracking issues with the front door open, you can look right down this path on the surface of the play field, and you can see if anything's hanging low. And you can do that on both sides. And you should see whatever the software was telling you. Wherever it was telling you there was a line twitching, you will probably see something hanging low. And this is a good way to look for it because you can open that front door and see all the way down
    64:48
    on both sides Take that back out and show other stuff Okay, so now we have access to our playfield display We have a question real quick are the wires soldered or quick connect the most of our coils I think all of our coils, actually, we order with pigtails on them, so they're direct-wired to connectors, and everything's easily connectorized. We kind of have a motto with the P3, which is never take your soldering iron to the P3. Take the component of the P3 out of the P3 and take that over to your workbench where you can solder it. So we try not to do any direct-soldered things that you can't remove easily through a connector. And all of our coil connectors now are most definitely quick connects. Some of the older coils are at least the quick connect. They'll attach to the lugs of the coils. Still no soldering required. Right. So one other thing we can do with the flipper assembly out is we can pull out the entire lower display and the playfield plastic.
    66:02
    The playfield plastic literally slides right out. It's a big rectangular piece of plastic. And you can see how dirty this one is. It's quite dirty, however,
    66:14
    one, you can clean it with some Novus II or your favorite plastic polish, but also when the screen is on and this bright light is shining behind it, you see very little dirt and debris. The light kind of overpowers it. So I didn't even notice while it was playing. I saw a couple of dust trails. One thing of note is whenever this plastic has been sitting over top of this display for a while, it will develop a natural bow to it so that if you do pull this plastic out to clean it and if you accidentally put it in upside down of where it was there's a reasonable chance that it'll it'll have a hump in the middle and that can cause issues when the balls are passing by the flipper assembly they may be touching or contacting the linkages that actually activate the flippers or the slingshots So if you are experiencing that, ask yourself, did you take this plastic out recently? And if so, verify that you put it in the same way that it came out where it's making more of a U-shape and the bow is downwards. The top side of the plastic way up here by the walls and scoops is supported by the display itself. And we have adjusters to adjust the display up higher to support the front of the plastic. But the back end, there's no adjustment. The monitor hangs a little bit lower, and it doesn't support the plastic as much. So the bottom side can develop the bow. The top side should be gone. Yep, which is also why you want to make sure you put it back in the same orientation and not forwards-backwards. So not forward-backwards and not upside-down. And if you do, and you really want to flip it over because one side's cleaner or scratch-free, then you're going to need to let it settle for a while or heat it up and let it sag or whatever. Put the machine on for a good 10 hours or so. Let the display warm up. Let it warm the plastic up, and it'll naturally get that same blow back to it. That's a good thing. Okay. Playfield display? Display. So in order to get the playfield display out, there are two connectors kind of midway back. One's a video cable. One's a power cable. Those are partially visible here.
    68:25
    Let's see. Slide it out a little bit. So usually you want to pull it out about an inch, two inches or so, and then you can get into, there's this video cable that has the thumbscrews. Can't see it with the camera, but there are two standard display cables, one power, one video cable, and that TJ's disconnecting right now.
    68:53
    I'm struggling to disconnect. It's a DBI cable, so it's got two screw handles, thumb screw things to tighten it up. Okay, so there's one cable, and then the other cable is just the standard IEC power cable. Okay, two cables, now the monitor's completely disconnected. Usually whenever I pull these out, I try to pull it out as a pair, so the plastic comes with the display just to protect this display surface. So it's basically just the same as a TV screen, but you're also moving it around. That's the last thing you want to do is put a nick right in the middle of it. This whole thing will slide out.
    69:36
    These parts that actually sit in the frame rails, they extend about two-thirds of the way up the display. So once those are clear of the frame rails, that is when the whole display will be free. So the playfield surface and the display are both completely out of the machine. The flipper module is out of the machine. Yeah. And now inside the machine we have access to the circuit boards for the opto, the side target assemblies, even have access to the front of the wall scoop assembly, which is the walls. And TJ is probably going to go in there and see what's wrong with the LED cable. So normally, if you're experiencing a side target LED that is showing weird colors or maybe only one target showing good colors, typically there's a ribbon cable on the backside of this assembly that has come partially unplugged.
    70:33
    The easiest way to get to that is to partially remove the display. So we'll just remove the display back so that the edge of it is in front of these side targets, which lets you reach up and underneath, and I can reseat this ribbon cable. The cable is going this way into the back of the circuit board, and that should re-enable the LEDs to light up fully. But for now, TJ's going to take off the wire form, and he's going to take out the side target assembly so you can see that stuff as well. But to do that, I've got to take the playfield out. Okay. I am going to switch to the single camera view so everybody can see better.
    71:16
    Oh, before I do that, I guess I'll show TJ taking the playfield out. You can see the playfield with overhead as well.
    71:21
    This particular playfield also has the crossing wire form on the front. As you can see by this lovely warning on the top of the rear panel, remove crossing wire form before playfield module.
    71:33
    So crossing wire form, The two ends of the wire form actually go into the end of the playfield module. To remove it, there's a single thumb screw where it meets the right wire form. Take off the thumb screw, pull the wire form straight out. Wire form and thumb screw. And if you forget to do that, you'll start to lift the playfield out, and you'll very quickly realize you left it in there, and it's no big deal. It's designed to come out easily, but if you can avoid pulling it out with it still in there, everything will be better. Yeah, just let go of the playfield and go and take it off.
    72:07
    The question is, how do you get to the back of the scoops? I will have TJ show you that in a second. Similarly, when you're installing this playfield, if you forget to put this wire form in, the game still plays just fine. Instead of just the ball going from the exit of the mezzanine to the right end lane, it'll just drop down and naturally go across to the same right flipper.
    72:26
    It's happened to us quite a few times, but it does happen. TJ kicked it away. because TJ said I'm too manly for that stool.
    72:37
    So for this playfield module, it's the crossing wire form, but for every playfield module we have, there will be between three and four connectors on the back of the playfield.
    72:47
    Each one has little tabs. Two of them have tabs, and one's a little USB cable. So this is the little umbilical cord. It's plugged onto every single playfield. I'm usually just draping these over the side. And then each playfield is held in on the front on either side with two latches. I'm actually going to pull the chassis out just a touch more so we can get a better view of these. Yeah, so we can actually see them better. is a playfield latch which has a handle and it's got a slider that covers the metal tab from the playfield. Yep, so normally these latches they are sprung towards the back of the playfield or back or towards the back of the machine. In order to unlock them we want to push the whole latch forwards and this small catch will keep it in place so we can lift the little tab straight up past the catch. The tab is no longer captured. If you flick that lever, now the tab is captured under the lever so the front of the playfield is set in place. Now, sometimes you'll put a playfield in and there'll be a little friction because the front of the tab hits the latch. I mean, usually you can just push down the front of the playfield to make it overcome that like TJ just did.
    74:11
    All right, so it's latched again. TJ will unlatch it. Unlatch both sides. And then graciously pull this playfield module out. I'm actually going to put this back in. Okay, standard service position, we call it service position one on some of our videos. Every playfield has a handle to grab onto. If you can't tell where the handle is, usually there is a note on the top of the playfield in the heist, for example. There's no weight in the front of this one. So you can grab on the handle on the playfield, and then every rear panel has some kind of handle in the back for Weird Al we're grabbing on the underside of this assembly. We can set this on its side. It's generally safe to put the playfield on its side. It just sits on the wood. There's no mechs, obviously, that go farther than the side of the cabinet, therefore there's none that extend past the side of the playfield. And then we can look in here, and this is our ball trough with all the balls staged up.
    75:16
    You want to talk through accessing the scoops since the playfield's out? Yeah, I'm going to take the pans out real quick. I'm going to just pop them off so you can see them. I know we're demoing a lot of stuff, taking the playfield surface out, the monitor, the flippers. If you wanted to access the scoops, you wouldn't need to do any of that. You do need to remove the playfield itself, the playfield module, but that's it. and then these next steps. Yep. So on the backside of the wall scoop assembly, we have an upper ball shield. This prevents any balls from the upper play field contacting any other mechanisms on the backside of the scoops. This little pan is held in place with two screws. There's one on either side. One sec. I'm going to switch things so the camera is much bigger. Okay.
    76:04
    And we can see all this stuff. When you put it back in, show how to make sure left side guide is correctly in place. Probably so it's not overlapping the side table. So if you did want to access the back of the scoops for any reason, there's one screw on the side. I do highly recommend using a magnetic screwdriver because if you drop one of these screws down on the machine, it can be a little bit of a chore to get two screws. Two screws only for that entire pan.
    76:37
    And now if you look down here, you have access to the scoop plastics, the LED boards for them. The cables, they all go back to a breakout board that's still a little bit guarded. So TJ will show you how to take out this lower pan as well.
    77:01
    So we have the lower VUK pan. Before you do that, pull out a scoop. So these new walls and scoops are friction locked into the machine. To fully remove them, you can literally just pull them up and disconnect the LED cable. And that's it. It's out of the machine. If ever one broke and we've literally never had a scoop device break.
    77:25
    TJ doesn't like that I said that. Literally never. They're made out of really durable polycarbonate. This is how easy it is to swap. It's much harder on the older modules, unfortunately, because they don't have these friction locks. They're more tied into the coils. But for the servo-based ones, we just lift them and lower them with a cam device, so they're free to move and therefore easily removable and replaceable.
    77:55
    Okay, so to take the bottom VUK pan out, there are two screws. There are two screws on this side over here, and there are two screws going into the side of the assembly over here, and these screws typically have washers with them.
    78:14
    Again, just trying not to drop any screws down inside. We do have a whole bunch of holes in the bottom of all of our drain pans. In case a screw ever does get down there, hopefully it goes straight through, but it's not always the case. So the top pan with two screws, the bottom pan, we call this the collection pan because balls roll.
    78:37
    They're collected by this collection pan from the playfield module. They roll down and get restaged into the ball chaff. Now that pan is gone.
    78:47
    And now if I zoom in here, you have full access to the circuit board. and no memory card. I don't care that I have no memory card.
    79:05
    And all the wiring from the servos to this breakout board. All the servos are down below. So if you needed to replace the servo, and they are wear items, so eventually all these servos will wear out. They should last years and years and years and years, so it shouldn't be a big deal for a while. Occasionally they do die prematurely, or if there's a problem they might die quicker. If you do need to, I'm going to keep getting this no memory card. If you do need to replace one, this is how you access the system to get to it. We have another full video showing all this in greater detail with a little bit more editing. And it's not just live blurry camera. of how to get to the scoop assembly, or the servo assembly for both the scoops and the walls. Is there a front or front-to-back adjustment you can do to the wall scoops if they're not well aligned?
    80:02
    The assembly is set up so that everything should align well, but if you do find that one is forward or back a little, you can give them a little bit of biasing forwards or back.
    80:13
    We have done that in the past. We do have on the website a full setup for wall scoops. If you're having problem XYZ, try these solutions. And the important things to remember with the wall scoops is they're all aligned to these aluminum blocks on the side. So the walls and the scoops should fit within the bounds of the top edge and the bottom edge, or the far edge and the near edge of the aluminum. And they should also be perfectly flush. The aluminum blocks are what set the height of the machine, of the playing surface. So all of these things should be adjusted to the aluminum. The entire machine is actually referenced off those aluminum blocks. They're the very first things we put on when we assemble these things. All right. Any more questions on the depth of this, the depth of this, before we start putting it back together? We can show you how to set the depth on the walls and scoops. We might as well do that since they're already exposed. I missed your joke, sorry. That's okay. Or maybe it wasn't funny. I don't know.
    81:22
    The up position of all of the walls and scoops is set through software. That tells us where the cam that litched them, where to lift it up and stop it. The down position is set through hardware with all of these little screws on each side. And that's because the top setting isn't super critical, and the bottom setting is super critical. We want to make sure that each component is level to each other, level to the blocks. So if you want to adjust all of these very carefully, you can raise or lower each one of these screws. I'm tightening this so now this wall is now taller than the rest. and through repeated use, every time it goes down, it is still that same height adjustment. So if I wanted this side to go down, I would loosen the screw until these two parts are perfectly level again.
    82:18
    Generally, you all shouldn't have to worry about this. It should come from the factory, but again, things move during shipping and rattling and over years of use, so you might have to adjust these. On previous models, the coil-driven versions, the down stops are different. They're harder to get to because the nuts are underneath the screws, and you have to loosen up nuts. On the new system, we designed it so they're accessible from the top using a screwdriver. And again, there's a full set of instructions with pictures on our support wiki for doing all the adjustments on the older versions for sure, and we're working on making sure everything's updated for the newer versions as well. Can you show where that alignment is for the balls getting jammed?
    83:06
    Yes. For that, we do need to put the machine up into the vertical position. Do you need to get vertical, or can you just do position two? I can, yeah. The only reason I'm hedging is because we have a camera up there, and it'll be harder to get it to vertical position right now. I guess next time I should put a memory card in the camera. This has never been a problem.
    83:33
    Okay. I'll go partially vertical. And I can hold it. So this is the second service position. This is going to be grabbing the chassis, lifting it up a little, and then pulling it upwards until the back roller bearings find this detent. and the side of the cabinet, and then we're just going to set it down in place.
    83:59
    When you have, if you have the playfield out, and you still have the display, the flippers, and everything in the front, it can be front heavy, and it wants to try to fall out of the cabinet. That's just something to be aware of. You can put it in this position with the playfield in it. That is safe to do. But you do have to remove the playfield before you put it up in the vertical position. which I'm going to simulate now. I'm not going to go full vertical with it. But for vertical, it's just going to, on either side of the frame, going to lift straight up as if it was going to pivot on these two back rollers where it's at right now.
    84:36
    And I could lean this all the way up against the head of the machine and work on it this way, but we don't want to move any of our camera setup right now. So I'll hold this while you point out. I'm good. Okay. So, the biggest cause of ball jams not auto staging in the VUK assembly is the mating between this drain pan from the wall scoop assembly to the collection pan from the VUK assembly. These two need to be absolutely flush on the inside. They're the same thickness metal, so flush inside, flush outside, so the balls can easily make that transition. If they have to fight that transition, it can lead to ball jam issues. To adjust that, again, there's a full set of instructions of all this stuff on the wiki and we're just going to touch base on it real quick. This pan is mounted with these two screws and those two screws and they're mounted in slots so if you loosen these four, and on the older machines you also have to loosen this bearing, this whole pan can come down, move in and out side to side and it will allow you to position it such that the transition between these two is absolutely flush. And that is the goal for any drain balls to be staged well. Alright, anything else in vertical position? You can see that in vertical position you have access to all of your VUK coils, you You have much easier access to your wall features, servo, the breakout board, and you have access to the circuit boards under the playing surface, which is the P3 rock board, which is the main brains. The slipper driver board, the PD-16 that drives both the lower and the upper flippers, not the mezzanine flipper that's in the play field, but the side target flippers and the lower flippers are from that board, and there's a couple of other boards that handle switches.
    86:33
    To get this chassis back out of this extended position, I'm going to lift up on it slightly and then give it a good push backwards and that will get the rollers in the back over a small detent. It's a little intimidating if it's your first time, especially because this thing is kind of large and heavy. This is actually quite easy with everything removed from it. It's probably a good way to recommend getting to learn how to use the detents. Any other questions while we have things kind of torn apart? Hopefully no one ever needs to go any deeper than this. You might need to get to your walls and scoops. You might need to get to your side targets. Oh, we wanted to pull the side target off. Side targets come off. Oh, yes. It's been very rare that anyone's had to do anything with the opto boards for the ball tracking. In rare cases, some people have had to swap out a PD-16 if they had a problem with their flippers, but generally speaking you should never have to disassemble the machine this much. No. And in fact you don't need to disassemble the machine this much to do most of the things we're showing you. For example to get to the scoops you don't need to take out the flippers and monitor and playfield plastic and all that. Scoops is playfield, the top drain pan, possibly the bottom drain pan if needed depending on what you're getting to. To get to the walls you just have to be able to pull to get to the top of the walls is just pulling the display out one or two inches and then you can gain access to whatever wall you need to. If you ever have to replace a servo on your wall scoop assembly, you don't pull one servo out. There's a couple screws that mount the entire plate full of all six servos. You can describe it better than me. Do you want to see it? I can pull it up real quick. Sure.
    88:26
    Pardon me. Again, hopefully this isn't something you need to do, but just in case you do... This whole plate where all the servos are mounted, this whole thing comes out with six screws. And I know I have a nice video about how to do this on our support wiki. Right, so this servo, if this one died, for instance, you don't just take this one out, you take the whole plate off, and then you have much easier access to everything. And you can just... The only downside is you have to disconnect each servo from the breakout board through these six cables, but they're real easy to get to and easy to plug back on.
    89:10
    I don't see any more questions on the guts, so now's your chance. Please ask if you want to see anything else, or else TJ will start. Oh, he's going to do the side targets first. Okay. So if we did want to pull, I'm going to do this one because I can get to it easily. Okay. For any Weird Al game, there's also this crossing wire form mount that's mounted right in front of the right wire form. There's a black 3D printed piece that just prevents the ball from getting stuck in this little void. I need to access this screw that's underneath of it, so this should be able to... I can do this on camera, you can see it. twist it a little and pull up, and I can just rotate it out of the way to gain access to this screw.
    89:55
    So the wire forms in this setup, and it could be any features in the future, but they screw into this channel on the side of the frame.
    90:09
    If yours aren't aligned properly, usually you can just loosen up these screws and shift it up or down a little bit. These you can usually do when the chassis is still in the play field. If you just need to loosen and reposition, you don't even have to pull it out into the service position. How many screws are holding the breakout board for the scoops? Four, one in each corner.
    90:32
    I'm going to take the wire farm off. The two nuts are going to stay captive in here. I just know that if I were to lift it up, this one could fall out the end. So they need to be aware of that. If you leave them there, then it's easier to realign everything. And then if you have the optional artwork installed, that'll have to come off as well. Same thing, that's bolted onto screws, brackets, slash screws that are in the frame. If you want to change your artwork between games, this is how you do it. Super easy, pull that off, stick another one on there, and you're good to go. And then for the flipper side targets, they're held onto the chassis with two fasteners. There is a larger one near the base. There's a tiny hole in the base of this that you can stick a 316 sound wrench into. I actually visibly see that screw. I might have to get a pair of pliers to break this loose.
    91:38
    This screw usually always falls out when you try to pull it out One cap screw And then for the flipper based assemblies the upper screw is a Phillips head screw For non-flipper side targets, it's two of that same screw that was pulled out. The upper screws, they are mounted with a little notch just above the flippers. And that's what you use to stick your screwdriver in to gain access to that screw.
    92:27
    The side target assembly is just mounted inside a slot. The same slot that the flippers slide into. The side targets are just deeper into the chassis. So there's our side target assembly. It's held in place, or it has the ribbon cable that does the LEDs. That's the one that we pushed in on the other side earlier. If you are experiencing any LED problems with your ribbon cable, likely it's partially, it might just be partially seated on these connectors.
    92:58
    So it can be fully seated. If you have it out like this, it's probably not a bad idea to put a little drop of RTV or hot glue to help keep this connector. RTV, not hot glue. RTV in place. RTV is, it works much better at room temperature. You don't need to heat it up and it will still dry solid. And then the coil connectors, this is the three pin connector. So if you're going to remove the target, you just undo these two and you pull the target off. Whenever it goes back in place, I just want to make sure that none of these cables are going to interface with the back of this plate, because that is what's going to actually contact the frame on the inside. So I'm going to spin this over, pop it back in that slot. The general rule of thumb for the side targets is the edge of the target is even with the edge of this cutout. So that's too far, that's in too far, that's out too far. The good rule for where to start is where they're even. The threaded part that the screws go into is built into a long piece of steel. Yes, it's a captive nut. So you don't have to hunt around for a moving nut. It's followed in place. So I'm going to try to look down a little window that you are blocking.
    94:20
    You don't need a window teaser. That's one. And then this screw should be able to go all the way back in that hole. Magnetic screwdriver. Without it, that screw is just going to fall down when you try to get it in there. And that holds the side target in place. And if you wanted to be super diligent, you could, let me see if I can do this with one hand, you can lower the front, you can look down here and make sure that no cables fall Usually if you do have a spurious grid event, it's because something's hanging down low. That would be bad.
    95:05
    Like that cable. In which case, with the display out, it's easy to reach underneath, feel something low, and just kind of tuck everything back up out of the way.
    95:16
    Everything on the entire lower two-thirds of the P3 plate field is suspended above the surface so that those optos work. So literally nothing goes through on the sides or anywhere else. Your focus drove close. Yikes. You might have to move to your left.
    95:35
    There we go. Well, we're going to double check whenever you put the display and plastic back in, because that's the important bit. So to put the artworks and the in-lane wire form. How much clearance is between the posts of the side target and the playfield so that they don't block off those? Quarter inch, right? Quarter inch, nominal. Everything wants to be, there needs to be a quarter inch of air gap. I think the smallest component is like .225, so just under a quarter. When I go to install these, I tend to leave the artwork a little bit loose, because its position depends on where the wire form gets mounted, so that, so that. these little wire form rings meet inside these cutouts. So I'm going to temporarily put this in place. Again, this is nominally wire form wires, even with the edge of the frame back here. That should position the exit from the wire form right on top of the flipper assembly hole. So then I will tighten the wire form down first,
    96:54
    where it's mostly in place on the artwork, and then the artwork can be adjusted so these little cutouts here match this ring as best they can. I think I have a nice picture document that shows all this stuff. All of this stuff, just to reinforce it. Everything we're talking about here, there's either a tech document or a video that shows you the specifics. You don't have to watch this long video. Though we will probably catalog this video and add links to specific points. And then for Weird Al, you just have to make sure that the wire form protector is back in line this way. Yeah. Then we can start putting everything back in. Probably start by here.
    97:43
    On our drain pans. You could show how to adjust the outlane bumper thing. Outlane bumper thing. Sure. That's the outlane bumper thing.
    97:56
    For that, it's easiest to pull the wire form off. You can get a wrench in here to loosen this bolt a little bit, but you might risk scratching the plastic.
    98:06
    You don't have to take both out, right? You can just loosen the back. Yeah, I can just loosen the back. I just basically have to be able to get to this nut with a nut driver. It's 1130 seconds.
    98:17
    No, three-eighths. I think it's three-eighths. It's a nut. It's something. I can get a three-eighths nut driver socket. You loosen that, and then you can swing the whole thing over. It can go all the way over. It will completely block the out main.
    98:31
    Yes. So in conjunction with the posts on the flipper assembly and these outlanes, you can have very granular
    98:39
    degrees of how close the outlanes are. We'll try to remember to show you when we put the flipper assembly back where the posts are. These always ship with them wide open.
    98:54
    Thank you for your question, and at the right time. Not halfway through whenever we're doing something completely different. makes it easier for us.
    99:04
    Okay, I'm going to put the back drain pan back in. Fun little hint on the drain tube that you see here. The ball rolls when it drains. It rolls down this long tube. It's going to collect dirt. It's going to collect dirt where the ball hits it, which is always on the bottom of the tube. All you need to do to clean it is not clean it, is just rotate it a little bit. And now it's a perfectly clean surface all the way down to the trough. Of course, there's dirt everywhere else in your machine, so it's going to pick up dirt again pretty quickly, but it's not too hard to clean.
    99:42
    Or not clean. So once the lower pan gets put back in, then I'll put the upper pan back in, and then we can put the playfield back in. I think it is Schedule 40. We put so much money into this entire platform. There's so many features that we were able to find a really elegant solution for the drain tube that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Yeah, we're passing those savings on to you.
    100:24
    We did have one customer say they spent a lot of money on the P3 and we should have made some really expensive... Yeah, a lot of New Age Redemption games use PVC inside them. Oh, yeah. And they cost more than this game does. Okay, bottom pin is in, I'll put the top pin in.
    100:43
    Those two screws we took out earlier. People like to say it's a very expensive machine, therefore every single component should be, I don't know. Top notch. And if we did that, the thing would cost $30,000, $40,000, $50,000. But we might sell one of them.
    101:01
    If you're that person, we're happy to make a custom version for you. I did this whole thing without having to take the balls out. Bottom drain is in and now top drain is in. So the scoops are fully protected again. So the playfield can go back in. Make sure both latches are in place. Balls in the ball trough. So every time you replace a play field, the tubes interface to the play field. The leftmost one goes farther down to block the balls into the first position. So if the balls are still in the ball trough, that tube won't be able to seat properly. So you just manually push the balls into the drain. then you can push the playfield in and when software boots up it will restage all the balls for you.
    102:24
    Got to align the back panel with the slots and the weight of the playfield generally lets it seat pretty well but if it doesn't you can wiggle it around until it seats. I purposely put this in so that outer rail is on the wrong side of the side target rail. Yes, there was a question about this because it's not terribly difficult to get the playfield's guide to fit too far back. I think we can see it here. You can see that it's too far back. Maybe not.
    102:55
    You can see on the mate, maybe. Maybe not. Yeah, I'll do this side so we can see a little easier. Where are we looking? Right there? Yes. Yeah, so basically this surface here is farther back than these two. So this is bad. He put it in wrong on purpose. Any balls shooting around the orbit will come, hit this, and then be jettisoned toward the middle of the play field, not nicely to the flipper.
    103:27
    So to fix that... It's basically just going to be pick it up, rock it over towards my side a little bit with my wrist, and set it back down.
    103:38
    And now they're flush. So the ball coming around the orbit will properly transition to the strike target. And you may have to do this on every play field you get. I do it on a quite frequent basis, honestly. I don't know what y'all are talking about, though. Weird Al Playfield's only 39 pounds. Should be no big deal. 37. 37 pounds. Actually, I'm just kidding. I find it quite heavy, too. But TJ lifts them all day long.
    104:06
    He's stronger than all of us. I'm going to plug this playfield as the three connectors back in. So now everything back here is done, minus releasing the playfield badges. And I usually just like to give a little push down to make sure that the playfield sits underneath the latches. Just push on solid stuff. Don't push on things that are supposed to move because you don't want to break anything. Yeah, don't push on this. Don't push on the Cannon Lagoon plastic. Push on the post.
    104:38
    Yes, TJ is available for consulting. All you've got to do is cover his travel expenses, his food, and whatever else he has for while he's traveling.
    104:49
    Okay, so I'm going to put the play field display back in. Okay. So whenever I'm going to pick this display up and hold it along with the along with the lower plastic I'm making sure the plastic ends up on top of These small aluminum channels and the display flanges end up in these little cutouts on either side That's where the display sits
    105:14
    And again TJ does this together to protect the monitor, but if you want to you don't have to do this together Unless you're comfortable with it. I generally do it separately, but then I do expose the surface of the screen system. The possibility of damage if I'm not careful. All you have to do is damage it once, and you'll never do it again. That's true, because I did.
    105:35
    Okay, so now that it's in, we still have to plug those two cables back in that we pulled out before.
    105:40
    Generally, I think you can get a shot. So they're on the back of this large gray box. They're on the back face of that. And when you push the display in so it's about even with the front rail, the edge of that box should be just behind this crossbar. You can reach under, look through the coin door to find out where these connectors... I know it's dark in there, you can't see it on the camera, but you can usually feel around in there and get it pretty quickly. And the cables usually have a pretty good memory, so you don't usually have to worry about is the cable upside down right side up.
    106:26
    Alright playfield surfaces and monitor is in everything's in except flippers and we can talk about the post real quickly. So the in-lane out-lane divider which is clear, is secured by a post. If you were to remove the other post, that would make your outlanes as wide open as they could possibly be. And have nothing to rebound off of. So the ball would hit it and just die and fall whichever way it wants to fall. The post on this assembly is clearly in the center hole position. You can close down your outlane more by raising it up to the top one or you could open up your out lanes more by lowering it to the bottom so between this and that swiveling side target piece you can you can mess around with the difficulty of your machine and every flipper assembly also has a small hole in the center if you want to add the optional center peg which comes with every p3 yeah and your goody bag there's a post just like this one where's the camera just like that post with the black rubber on it there's one that comes in your goodie bag you can install it if you want a center post you can install it onto your flipper assembly without having to drill a hole in your playfield
    107:53
    all right machine fully back together there was a lot of crossing wire there There was a lot of assembly and disassembly and talking, and it still only took less than 45 minutes.
    108:08
    So, crossing wire form, the two ends of the wire form. They're going to two small holes underneath this little opening at the end of the mezzanine.
    108:18
    You slide in, and it mounts over here. Easier to do this in service position, but if you forget the frames in the machine, it's still possible to get it in there. Make sure that stays nice and tight.
    108:29
    All right. Everything's back to normal. Now that we've emptied all the balls out, when we first power the machine on, the VUK assembly should auto stage all the balls back into the trough
    108:47
    once it boots up in about 10 seconds. There's a question about custom flipper assemblies, and the answer is absolutely yes. Yes, we designed this to be modular so that people could come up with new variations on flipper assemblies. I don't know when someone will, but yes, it's absolutely possible. It just has a standardized 15-pin connector.
    109:09
    That popping is the trough spacing the balls back into it. Do you want to change the camera? Yeah. I'm just going to see if I can get in here before I finish.
    109:25
    All right. That's really all we planned on showing. Let us know if you have any more questions. We'll hang around for a little bit. If not, we will sign off and get this recording out there for everyone to see. The game is fully back together, it can be played, and we can take advantage of all these cool features. The subwoofer makes a loud pop, is that normal? Oh, I know what we wanted to talk about. Yes, that is normal. It's when the power goes through the amp to charge up what's necessary to drive the woofer. It does sometimes make a pop. Using the cart. Oh. All right, we're going to show you one more cool thing with the play field.
    110:25
    Crossing wire. Yeah. I may not be able to actually do this on this. That'll be very close. So the nice thing about modular is it's easy to take the play field out and put it back in. And the downside is if something's wrong, you have to take the play field out to work on it. and it's difficult to turn power on and activate features on the play field to debug stuff.
    110:51
    So generally the instructions are take it out, do some modifications or tweaking, and then put it back in and test it. You don't have to do that. If you have a table or a surface that you can put right next to the machine,
    111:05
    then if you can get it to the right height, then generally the wiring harness for the machine can reach the position of the playfield. This works much better on the left side of the machine just based on how the cable is routed internally.
    111:29
    But... If I put the playfield... So a lot of you probably have this Harbor Freight lift table. I'm just putting the playfield on its side so the electrical connector is as close to the machine as it can be.
    111:42
    This one could stand to be a little bit taller. So if you were debugging something, please don't take this instruction as an instruction. Don't get used to doing this because it does put some things in jeopardy, but CJ will turn on the game and will show you the diagnostic runs and stuff with the playfield in this position. One caveat is when the playfield is not in the machine, it is no longer stopping the balls from going all the way to the end of the VUK assembly. And as a rule, any time the VUK assembly sees a ball farther left than it's supposed to be able to go, it will try to softly pop it off the rails. So you can see that. You should be able to see it on the upper camera too.
    112:30
    It's just going to slightly, gently pop this ball until it falls off the forward of the rails, but the machine is angled backwards so it'll never do it. Yeah, if the frame were in the machine, that ball would roll forward. And this is to clear a ball if, in gameplay, a ball bounces into a position left of the leftmost tube. The software tries to clear it. So when you don't have the playfield in there, it's trying to clear it, Thinking the play field is in there, but that's no big deal Just ignore so now you can see all the LEDs are on we can go into diagnostics and test some features or whatever There's a question. I don't know if you want to address it here or not about adjusting the camera release mechanism
    113:09
    That's gonna be a little bit more involved and we have time for now I don't think I have anything on the support site for it yet, but it is definitely plan to go on there very soon soon. Okay, so please send your question in support at multimorphic.com or create a ticket at multimorphic.com slash support. Yeah, we can go, we can dig into that. Generally speaking, every issue that somebody reports, or that two people report, if it's reported more than once, then we're generally creating an article for the wiki, the support wiki, or making a video for it so other people can learn from everything we've learned when we're debugging it the first time.
    113:48
    And if you do have one of these Harbor Freight carts like we do, ours is pressure over time and it will slowly start to lower. It's just something to be aware of that this bit of cord has a finite length and if this lowers down too far, bad things can happen. So just be aware of your surroundings and what you're working on. Yeah, and if your frame's out, especially if it's out in service position too, of course it can tend to want to fall out. So all of the really, really deep diving maintenance stuff, you might have somebody helping. Yeah, helping hand is definitely nice, especially if it's your first time attempting this.
    114:24
    And if you're a little bit unfamiliar with it. Alright. I'm going to power this off. Do this one.
    114:43
    I'm going to stand with my T3 right. Wait, can I angle my body? Yeah, there we go. That's nice. P3, P3. You need a logo off shirt.
    114:56
    So P3 shirts. This shirt that I'm wearing was an experiment. It was actually a gift from a vendor. We're probably going to create more P3 shirts with just the P3 in the pocket area. And we also actually just got a new shipment of the revolutionary P3 shirt that TJ is wearing that Ryan Claytor designed for us. So we can hopefully get those on the website soon for people to buy.
    115:35
    You clear? All right. Any more questions? Now you got our attentions. So it's a good chance to ask. Steven likes the big P3 shirt.
    116:01
    Steven's a little more gaudy than the rest of us, so he likes to have big bright things. Thank you. We appreciate the praise, the kind words. It's obviously been a ton of work. I'm going to click back over to the showroom.
    116:30
    Single camera. Open up the lens again. And point out again, hopefully it focuses, that all of these machines are the same. They're all running different games. We even have the Drain Playfield software in one of them. The Drain software and module were developed by a third party, Nick Baldridge, for amusement-only games that just went for sale. And all of these things are purchasable installable. Well, almost all of them. Heads up. That heads-up demonstration, two machines, network-connected, battling each other, sitting right there with cool LEDs on the cabinet, That was the demonstration we created for a trial at Dave & Buster's. Had the machines on site for a while. We haven't released that to the public yet. We are going to release at some point the cabinet LEDs, which will be a cool upgrade for people. But all these machines are basically the same internally. You can install any play field on any of them. You can install the software. And they all grew from those guys over there. The one on the left was built in my garage in 2012 by hand, by me and Les. TJ joined us to develop, I think he started with the flipper assembly, the oak machine, and iterated through production prototypes. The one on the left of this wall is the first production sample, and then the next five of them are literally five of the eight first machines that came off our production line. They're five years old. These last two, the Heist machine and the Weird Al machine, are brand new machines that we built this year with the new wall and scoop assembly and the new speaker panel. Oh, you're right. We upgraded it. Yeah, we upgraded the Heist machine. And we've talked about coming out with a back box upgrade and a wall scoop assembly upgrade for everyone. Those will be coming, like I said in the last public update.
    118:41
    Module storage solution? I don't know. We aren't working on anything anywhere related to a module storage solution that can slide under a machine and hold two assemblies and come between the legs of the machine. Nope, never thought of it. Don't think we'll do anything like that.
    119:03
    TJ, I just said we're not working on that. So it can hold two play fields. It slides between the front legs, barely. It will eventually have wheels. It will be eventually decorated. TJ's walking around in a boot because he kicks people too much and hurts himself. But, yeah, we've got a storage solution like that coming. We thought about other storage solutions, but I figure most of you all probably have empty space under your machines. So it's probably the best place to put extra games.
    119:45
    Will it be covered? I don't know yet. We might. I think it was Kevin Manning from Buffalo Pinball. He went and bought a, I don't know if it was embroidered or a printed cover, a nice black cover that had a P3 on it that was beautiful. I don't know if we'll offer one or if we'll give you a link to go find one or whatever.
    120:10
    All right. Well, let me put us back on camera. We'll say goodbye. Thank you all for joining us. Like I said, we will put this video on YouTube. We have it recorded. Hopefully the recording worked.
    120:28
    We don't have to do it all again. You all have to ask the exact same questions all over again. Thank you again for your support. Thank you for believing in the platform, for allowing us to create this thing for you, and for enjoying the games that we create for it. This has been a great year for us.
    120:42
    We'll look on so many cool things for you guys in the next coming year. And again, if you have any questions that we didn't cover or if you need more detail on anything, just email us, support at multimorphic.com, or go to the website, click on the support button, and enter a case, or first, before you do any of that, read through our support wiki, which has articles for everything we covered here, or almost everything, and a whole lot more, including specific sections for each playfield module. And we talk about all of the unique things on each playfield that might need some tweaking or we get common questions about. There's also the PQR Sympan Discord. You can join. There's a lot of good resources there, too. We're not always available, but you can get responses right away. but there's a lot of community members that can help out for similar things they've seen or other issues. Yeah, and thank you to all of you for that. The more you learn about the machines and help others is a big help to everyone. It offloads us a little bit, and it spreads the knowledge. We're looking forward to the day when everyone knows so much about the P3 that everyone can help everyone, and you can just jump on Pinside or Facebook or your favorite community channel and get the help you need. And we understand it's new and it's different, so we're heavily involved in support. We're happy to answer any questions. We actually like engaging and learning what it is about the machine that you enjoy and that you're struggling with, and we're happy to help.
    122:07
    All right, that's all we got. Thank you very much. Bye. you